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Cruze418 I really appreciate you making the suggestion at some point that I may need to call in some help. I’m going to give it a last bit of honest effort before I do that. There are some things that are beyond my scope but this website has been such a valuable resource. I really can’t thank...

Jimjimjimmy thank you for the heads up about the ends of the valley pan. I wasn’t aware of that. Why doesn’t it matter about the ends of the valley pan? I tried to use the keyway that allowed the bottom gear to line up properly based on the dots. I didn’t remove the keyway when I installed...

Dr Charles I didn’t think about that.

Yes it’s a big block a 383. I tried reusing the old valley pan when I reassembled it again and again. I’ll order a new valley pan(what brand) and maybe I should use a special type of intake gasket possibly between the intake and valley pan? Should I also use the copper spray and spray all...

If there is a suggestion to use a gasket? What type of gasket would everyone suggest and what brand type of valley pan? Thanks

Well I have another question for everyone. I though I took care of the vacuum leak but I may still have one? First I took some starter fluid and while engine wasn’t real hot but warm sprayed it in between where the intake meets the heads. On the drivers side the starter fluid sat there and...

Well I got my piston stop and proceeded to check TDC for cylinder #1. Let’s just say it was way off. No wonder I couldn’t get it to run right and idle nice after putting it back together. I included a photo so everyone can see how off the zero degrees was on the dampener. The actual factory...

Everyone I was looking through my old photos when I installed the new chain and gears. Thankfully I take pics of everything. I found some old photos of the installation. I lined the gears up dot to dot just to get it dead accurate then rotated the crank to #1 cylinder TDC before dropping in...

Thank you Rusty and AJ/Forums and everyone else that chimed in with help and suggestions. I’ll start with finding true TDC and looking for vacuum leaks then by process of elimination go from there. I’ll keep my progress posted. Thanks to everyone as always. Carl

Can you degree the cam with the water pump and timing cover on if I have determined that the damper and timing cover are dead on? I don’t want to tear apart the engine for the third time. Sometimes learning this stuff is a royal pain in the *** doing the same things several times.

AJ/Forms Is there any possibility that before I deg the cam I first find TDC with the piston stop. Then at least I know if the timing on the dampener coincides with the timing cover marker. Try to reset the timing maybe I did it incorrectly or the dampener is off. I have no idea how to deg...

I’ve decided to buy a piston stop from Mancini. I’ll put it in cylinder #1 front drivers side. Mark the total distance traveled for the piston and in the middle is TDC. Then to make sure dampener is set correct it should be at zero on timing cover at TDC. I think that is a must do for me on...

So I did more research and possibly I’m not understanding how to set timing properly. If the avg factory initial setting for a standard 383 Mopar at idle is around 12deg BTDC does that mean that the timing is advanced 12 degrees? It’s advanced because it’s occurring 12 deg before the piston on...

Furyus2 It’s interesting about what you said about covering the carburetor to check for a vacuum leak. I tried to use my hands to block the air flow into the openings of the speed demon carb to see if it affected the way the car idled. Cupping my hands together over the top of the carb didn’t...

Yes it runs now. So if it wouldn’t run at 180deg out then that’s definitely not the problem. I just don’t understand why the initial timing seems to only run up that high? When I tried to turn distributor and lower initial timing it sounded like it would stall. Well back to the dressing board.

If so how can I fix it? Just drop in distributor 180 deg out and timing should work out?

Is that why when I tried to lower initial timing to around 15deg it was going to stall out and will only run with initial at 36deg because it’s 180 deg out?

I had the heads off the engine and when I replaced the timing gears and chain I made sure the timing gears were lined up. The thing is if I remember correctly at #1 TDC the dots on the timing gears were top gear 12 o’clock bottom gear 12 o’clock. So they were in line but not dot to dot. Maybe...

Rusty yes the initial timing is at 36deg at idle based on the timing light and when I tried to lower the initial timing it seemed like it was going to stall? I thought that initial timing was supposed to be around 15-30deg. I was confused by where it was set at? Did I not move the distributor...

I have to apologize in that I’m trying to learn as I go along. Sometimes I may need things explained to me in more detail to fully understand. Yes I tried to back off the idle screw to lower the idling rpm. It seems to only adjust down to where it is at now. I loosened the rear bracket...

P.S. I included some close ups of the idle screw and the setup. I’m much more familiar with the edelbrock carburetors and I think speed demons are more like a Holley. Should I buy a vacuum gauge for testing purposes?

So I finally had to time to address the issues I had to fix after relocating my dart in my move. So I have a 67 dart with 383 four speed. I swapped out the cast iron 915 heads for edelbrock rpm performers. Do to time constraints I previously put the edelbrock intake and speed demon carb back...

I don’t want this to sound stupid but why the brass chisel? Maybe it is softer material to not as easily damage the lock ring holding the unit in?

Steve I use carburetor cleaner it comes in what looks like a metal gallon paint can. You can pick it up at Walmart or any auto parts store. I let it soak however long depending on how bad the carb is. I then will take and old toothbrush to it to clean any remaining areas. I don't know it it is...

Thank you everyone for the advice and feedback. Halifaxhops special thanks to you for that link. Carl

Badsport Yes the replacement accelerator pump from Mikes Carbs is just like the old one with a leather wrap. Also the s clip is installed correctly looks like an s from the front. I still don't know if adjustment of the accelerator pump down or up will remedy the bog under load. Does the...

Reaching out to the community. Afb carb correct for 67 383 4 speed a body. Motor never been rebuilt so stock performance. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb and still having some problems. I set floats to factory specs. Installed new jets. primaries are set to stock secondaries 1 step up...

Primaries on intake 1 7/16" and secondaries 1 9/16".

Rumblefish360 Thanks for the advice. Carl

Asking for some help; I have the stock Carter afb 4298s on my 67 383 4 speed formula s and want to upgrade to a bigger cfm Carter that I can just rebuild put on and go. I know that my 67 intake is limited by smaller openings primary 1 7/16" and secondary 1 9/16". Could I for example put on...