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A factory proportioning valve is perfect when paired with the same combination of front brakes, rear brakes, and weight distribution it was used with. If you're using the exact same front and rear brakes as the donor car, and the donor car was an A-body, it's fine. The things that really need an...

For that matter, if you want to do something on the cheap, you can simply take F/M/J body spindles out of a junkyard and bolt them on. Put everything from ball joint to ball joint on there - or you could use the larger rotors and caliper brackets from '75 and later B-bodies.

I'd say there is a bit of an odd mix of skimping and splurging there. I'd pass on the exotic drop spindles - F/M/J body spindles work fine if you can't find a set of '73-'76 A body disc spindles, and use the money saved to get a somewhat better quality master cylinder and calipers. Cardone isn't...

All '73-'76 A-body UCAs are the same, so you're good to go.

F-body brake hoses will be a direct bolt on for a '66 with rear mounted calipers. Just remove the little bracket thing on the hose.

When converting my '66 Dart to '73-'76 A-body disc spindles, I did have to change out the lower ball joints, but the '73-'76 lower ball joints bolt right into the '66 lower control arms. The bolts holding the spindles to the ball joints aren't the same diameter, either, so I needed new bolts.

Does that include the upper control arms? All in all, it's not a huge amount of work; the main problem is practically every suspension bolt is seriously rusted. You'll want to get the ball joints and brake hoses new, of course.

The slots can go either way - which side to put the rotors on depends on the internal vanes inside the rotor. Some have straight vanes and can go either way. Others have curved vanes that have to go on a particular side. Curved vane rotors will have specific instructions about which way they...

Right, K-H discs all came with 4 piston calipers from the factory. Later setups had single piston designs.

And sometimes then, the difference you see is a lot of cracking. As Xstream_1 noted, it's really just a weight saving measure, and not a good choice for a track car but can make sense for drag applications or motorcycles.

It can be done with good proportioning; balancing it out with caliper piston sizes would be ideal here, as twofosho mentioned. Although I'm wondering why you would want this combo - got a good deal on both?

For that matter, even road race and oval track guys don't run drilled rotors that much anymore, and they often heat their brakes to a glowing red. About the only racing applications you see cross drilled rotors in these days are sport bikes (where it's purely a weight saving measure) and...

I used stock F-body hoses and put the calipers on the back of the spindle. Fewer worries about sway bar clearance there.

The only thing that's likely to change actual stopping distance is the pad compound. The other parts may alter pedal feel but not stopping distance. It may be a decent compound they're using (it's certainly not hard to top the organic compounds in many parts store brakes), but their website...

I almost wonder if the issue is front to rear ballance. You've got discs that are smaller up front than what Mopar ran, with some pretty decent rear brakes. When you give the brakes a huge stomp, which end locks up first?

Those years could have had either disc or drum, but you could get discs with a slant six. If it did have discs they'd be the same as what would have been used on a V8 car. Also note that if it is discs it'll have the large bolt pattern, but the drum cars kept the small bolt pattern.