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That sums it up. Same coil AFAIK.

Dang that's expensive. What happened to your project? Was the issue too expensive to get it made out of a material that be strong enough?

"Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution" by Edward F Obert You can also read the various snips from Obert, Larew, and Taylor that Tuner and Shrinker in particular have posted and explained on a few forums, which some of us here have referenced in the past...

These has been answered, and you agreed. So now why are you asking again? All I can guess is you don't understand how the the different advances work and what you can and can't do with them. Since you want to buy an answer, then either buy the FBO system and do whatever Don says, or buy...

This is what it boils down to, doesn't it. If a campfire is built properly I can light it with flint and steel. Using one of those extended butane lighters won't hurt but unless there are some adjustments to the build, its not going to help get the big logs burning quicker, and the end result...

Only if there is a problem (resistance) with the power feed from the alternator to the main splice. A relay is an electrically powered switch. Installing a headlight relay uses the original headlight circuits (hi & low) to connect the headlights more directly to the power supply. A circuit...

I haven't studied this. I think if you just disconnect the module as @townsend wrote then the light will be off. My question is whether that then requires the over ride switch to be activated before starting the car. If so, that switch's wires can be jumpered.

Thanks. The Sun Distributor Testers have their tachs in distributor rpm. Works off a signal from mechanically driven contact points - as long as they don't stick - so its one distributor rev per pulse. At least the ones I've seen - which are older. Also have two scales, one for low rpm range...

I had similar thinking at one time. Eventually I learned the Chrysler team was a lot smarter and knowledgable than most enthusiasts, and that includes many racers. (On the other hand I noticed class racers tended to pay attention to factory info and put it to use. But I digress) Here's my time...

You'all think the freshly minted junky cheaply made parts are limited to mopar stuff? :rofl:

This is basic info for some and maybe new for others... Voltage to fire (jump the spark plug gap) depends on the conditions at the gap. If conditions are such that 12,000 Volts will cause the spark, then that's what happens. It doesn't go higher. Once the spark has begun, then the voltage...

In the video, I assume the Allen's tach is in distributor RPM. So double that for crankshaft speed. (edit: crossed out because its incorrect. See Newbomb Turk's reponse below) 'Larger spark'. A spark that can initiate with a larger spark plug gap has potential to create a larger flame...

Part of it is the power supply. Answer this. What is the max voltage the battery can supply power at? What is the normal votlage range for the alternator to supply voltage at? Up to the welded splice current from each follows a different path. Test for resistance in each using voltage drop...

MSD 6 series instructions from Autotronics marked up. Starter relay wires should not have been involved. Original coil wires removed from the coil Former coil feed wire (brown) is used to switch the MSD unit on. If using the original points distributor, MSD white wire is connected to...

Cranking is NOT related to the ignition wires. Or rather, it shouldn't be. Cranking is the Start wire. S2 (yellow) on the diagram. Goes from the key switch S terminal to the Starter relay terminal. How the Starter Relay Works Key in Start. Power is available through the key switch (S) to the...

yes

That's the rally dash ground and I don't know if the '70 used the same. The other end attaches to the strut support for the radio. Yes. Behind the kickpanel was another ground wire which connects to the heater core...

Correct. Follow the link for the IVR ground contact on the back of the fuel gage. I was short on time so linked instead of copied those photos.

On my '67 its a wire with two ring terminals the other end going to the radio supportscew where it mounts to the dash. IVR on the Rally panel grounds as shown here https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/gauge-cluster-issues-ivr.455893/post-1972855400

That lamp looks bright and the lens is showing heat damage. Definately on too long. Maybe a short. I won't have a chance to look at the books until later in the week. Your Valiant has the heavy duty wiring and back window heater grid. yes? Maybe @townsend or @Bugman will know or be able to...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fusible-link-or-not.458737/post-1972905931 Here's a dirty example from a junkyard but its got place for three fuses, relays, circhit breakers and a cover...

Go look at a Studebaker. I don't know what the boost is but they made it work 50 years ago. Off the top of my head there is reference is connecting to the fuel pump.

While you're waiting for a print copy, there is a digitial copy available at www.mymopar.com Some photos if it helps here https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/pictures-of-engine-bay-wiring-desired-65-dart.557690/#post-1974610547...

i agree something is not right with the wiring now. With engine off, any one of those items on, even the dome light, and the ammeter should show battery discharge if the light goes on.

So the wire from the wiper resistor to the coil is wrong. That's probbaly a 5 or 8 ohm resistor. I didnt see the spec for the 2 speed wiper in a quick look at the FSM but its probaly in that range.

Here's a '71 with a 0.6 Ohm resistor One blue wire is from key run. Should have a white tracer on it. The other blue wire goes to the alternator field and voltage regulator. If converting to ECU, the is a good place to connect the power for it. With the original '74 wiring, the 5th pin is...

Yes. That is what I was getting at. If RhinoDart's car has the original ECU, then it needs 5 ohm resistor and all 5 pins connected properly. If the car has a newer ECU, then that extra power connection can be eliminated and just the 0.5 ohm resistor is needed like your diagram shows.

Thanks. My bad. Those wiper low speed resistors do look the same, but I think the resistance is much higher than the ignition resistor. 1974 resistors were here. Earlier points ones were under the pinch weld/drip gutter. That has both the 5 ohm and the 1/2 resistor. With a replacement ECU...

Some '65 engine bay photos here https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/pictures-of-engine-bay-wiring-desired-65-dart.557690/#post-1974610547

I hope you saved the old parts. Most are better than new - unless / until they fail of course. regardless. IF everything is hooked up properly, then +20 to 30 amps shows either a) the battery is not charged and is sucking as much as possible from the alternator b) voltage regulation is high...