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^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^ Remove them, then reinstall. Same with steering linkage or other items as needed or sometimes just to make it easier.

So here's the catch. You're learning, as we all are, but in your case just beginning to learn about these particular cars. So it won't be perfect. For flip, the goal is to take something poor to OK and make it good or at least better in some way that makes it more desirable. For a quicker...

That's probably correct. Here's some clues for next time. The radiator you have is a "square top", it looks fairly wide and the part number is fairly high. The radiator you really want will be a "bubble top",22" wide, and the part number, Dana has posted. You can also use any big block...

You can go with his system, and for most people it will work out. However, his theory of why it works is not entirely correct. This why for many years his stuff didn't always work with vac advance. I've tried to discuss that with him here but he always disappears. The idea that GM did not...

No. This belief was being promoted by some guru a few years back. Venturi vacuum was used as the timing control on some Fords after the war. It's totally different system than the one used on our cars. from 1959 page 10 (Session 136) of the Chrysler MTSC. Illustrated here from 1969...

In many situations the reason manifold vacuum is helpful is the mechanical advance. Using manifold vac is a way to crutch it and much simpler and easier. It does require a stable and reasonable strong vacuum at idle.

Could be the wires to the amplifier are reversed. Assuming this isn't an RTR model. 1/4" of engagement of the tab in the slot should be enough. Doesn't sound like you've got a B in an RB block. I 'll leave that for the guys who have built B/RB engines. Up down motion of the distributor drive...

Interesting. That's pretty sensitive (1/2 turn of the screw). I'll check a 4779 double pumper next time I'm at the garage. I was pretty tired last night. Once I started looking at your notes I completely agree there is an issue with the distributor. On an MSD, use springs in pairs so the...

I'll log in some time tommorrow to spend more time on what your notes. This sure sounds like something isn't right in the mechanical advance. I think it would be worthwhile looking at the advance mechanism. It sounds like there is slack in the advance springs. Pink cam provides the one...

Once you get the off idle OK, if there are still issues slowly adding power, say for an uphill at 35 mph, then it may be time to test smaller idle air bleeds. You can do that by sticking some wire in those bleeds. We can address that as needed.

Leave the pump shot lever spring alone. See what accelerator pump cam is installed. They are color coded so you won't have to remove it to read the number. However that said, its best to make sure the off idle is responding well with slower opening of the throttle. Begin with as slow as...

All that said, you can focus on initial timing and tuning the idle first. Then come back to the driving and wide open throttle stuff later. Just have the discipline to keep your foot out of the pedal on any test drives. Thats the one way the engine can be seriously damaged.

Scampy is correct. Transfer slot relationship at idle is very important. A portion of the fuel at idle comes through the transfer slot. That portion is not controlled by the idle mix screw. It is only controlled by the amount of slot exposed to atmostpheric pressure vs the amount of slot at...

can't think of anything really weird. First times I changed IABs I was surprised that they also affected the fuel mixture at dead idle. I had thought they 'only' affected the top of the transition before the mains started up. But now I understand that IAB affects the fuel density in the idle...

Edited earlier post where I correctly wrote bleeds then incorrectly wrote IFR while still talking about bleeds. :rolleyes: What Shrinker suggested for IFR check is similar to Urich-Holley. shrinker 08-16-2008, 02:41 PM "Hello; tuning tip; place car in Neutral---start engine---very slowly open...

One more snip from Shrinker. Some of these things are context dependent, not absolute rules... " If the vac is less at say 9" to 11" then the t-slot needs to be more exposed so the idle mixture screw will probably be best idle at around 0.5 to 0.75 turn off the seat. The Idle mixture screw is...

My experience was that I made a lot of tests changing the IFR, then the IAB, then the IFR, then the IAB until the low speed driving seemed the best. That didn't help me understand the relationships, but some stuff posted by Shrinker and Mark did. I generally don't worry about how far in or out...

It's not off track. Someone smarter than me once posted about the time it takes for the fuel to clean up is time lost in establishing good combustion. Point was that getting the idle and off idle cleaned up is definately relavant to the runs. To add to what Mderoy said. Important thing is...

Yes. & Highway cruising too. Depends on the distributor and the engine. In general no. Use vacuum advance to compensate for the increased time for combustion with leaner, less dense mixtures in the cylinder. Strong idle calls for somewhat richer mixture than when cruising. Depends on how...

Thanks Andy! That would suggest very little loss of flow from the pump through the galleries. At lower rpms the pump shouldn't be pushing enough oil to push the relief open. Changing relief spring should change the maximum pressure and volume. Orange line represents a higher pressure...

Andy, Where do you typically read oil pressure when working on your big blocks?

Yes. Use an oil with same hot viscosity as now, but that has a lower cold temperature viscosity. Yes Warm oil flows better than cold. The only thing you had backward is how the SAE numbers work. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. One way to think of a multi-grade oil is like this...

Its an analogy to point out the relationship of pressure and flow. Its not an explanation of the Goldilocks for any particular engine When stuff is flowing it matters where pressure is measured. How much flows depend on both pressure and viscosity. The goldilocks for any particular engine...

Do you have a well pump on your house? Imagine if it was pumping something thicker than water. Molasses is good because its extreme, but honey, or ketchup is Ok if that's easier for you to picture. Now go open a faucet on an upper floor. How much would flow out compared to water? What would...

Not sure what you mean by 'studies'. This is straightfoward engineering. Go look at the specifications for SAE Automotive oil grades. The grade designations are based on viscosity at 100 * C or 212 *F. An SAE 30 most certainly has a different viscosity at 200*F than an SAE 20 or 40...

Depends where you are asking about. At the pump, no. If any thing it might go up since it may be more than the relief valve can blow off. We see this when an engine is cold - especially on engines where the pressure gage is located close to the pump (such as a small block or AMC). But at the...

New engine probably wants a thinner oil unless it was specifically built with higher clearances. Pressure is measured at the beginning of the oil system.* Try this for why thicker can leave some of the system without sufficient oil. Picture trying to push molasses through to the top end. Even...