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Do the switches have the same thread? swap switches and be done with it.

Most of what you got was rhetorical answer, lol Without deciding who knows what and whether the previous posts are correct or not: Most of this is not fully understood unless you read and understand basic hydraulic function, and have a book (the allpar article was,,, lacking) or FSM with the...

The drive shaft in my 72 is bent. Has the 8.75" axle. I doubt its common, but I don't own a million Darts. Given that the shaft is a small diameter, and is taking about twice the HP it was supposed to, It may be more common than I think. Or you think.

check the throttle valve cable adjustment. This could be part of the problem if its too tight. DOes it manually downshift to first without going to neutral?

1) a slant six trans will not bolt to a small block. The torque converter may bolt up, but it will not be balanced for the 360, and may not be able to work well on a small block application. 2) You should check any aftermarket suspension place for the plates. I do not think the 7 1/4 plates...

998 and 999 trans was late 70's and up. you'll have to check the numbers on the casting to verify it, as they all look the same. More often than not, the 998 999 had a lock up converter, so a look at the input shaft would reveal a fluid passage in the end of the shaft.

If you feel the end play is excessive, you should check the c clips on the inboard end of the axle shaft. The 1973 FSM says end play is "built in." End play in this axle is a factor of space between the end of the axle and the center pin of the spider gears. I'd check there first and see if that...

most of the time, the centering valve is the cause of the full lock problem. simply adjusting the play in the sector shaft shouldn't affect the power assist on the worm gear shaft.

Line pressure will be higher with the shift kit. Usually they send a small cardstock device that shows the proper dimension on the adjuster. All that you mention sounds normal except the lack of pressure at the rear servo when in manual low.

No, but you will likely notice a lack of efficiency; it'll feel a bit "loose." Stall speed depends a lot on power of the engine versus weight of the car, as well as cam specs (listed power band of the cam). Because its already a smaller diameter converter, it'll tend to stall to a higher rpm...

yes, the nut with the allen screw in the middle can be loosened, and the screw turned in a small bit at a time until you are happy with the play in the steering. Do not tighten too far, as this will create drivability problems and will wear the parts faster.

the front servo port you were in sounds as though its the one that forces release of the front band, so the reading there could be correct. The fact that the rear servo did not show pressure in manual 1st is a bit bothersome. Do you have the FSM for the car? this would give you pressures that...

you'll want to look into the upgrades for the OD clutches (adds one more set of plates) and upgrade the servo that applies the band. The Corvette had a better one, and even more crisp shifts can be had with aftermarket stuff. the Website you have listed has both, IIRC.

This could be a number of issues, either electrical or mechanical. I'd check the electrical first, then look for debris in the pan.

for 300hp, find an 8 1/4" rear axle and be done with it. No cost to narrow it, no cost to change bolt pattern etc. Everything will bolt up.

check to be sure the kickdown linkage is properly adjusted.

if this is a new trans, whats stopping him from seeking warranty coverage? Also, if the trans is working properly, perhaps letting it run and see if the seeping stops is in order.

yeah, got that.

You don't mention whether the trans operated properly, nor what the fluid level is after adding the three quarts. If the trans worked well, and the fluid level is now staying at a normal level, you may be past the problem.

check the spline on the input shaft.

My thought is that your math is backwards. The planetary, except for the OD unit, would be a reduction ratio to allow mechanical advantage. 3 RPM input = 1 RPM output. 6000RPM engine = 2000RPM output shaft.

Transgo.

The instructions won't be able to show what kit is in unless you have a working knowledge of different kits. 1 1/4" for heavy duty use, 1 3/16" for Street Strip. Thats B&M and Fairbanks specs. Unfortunately, the pdf I have is a 518 kit, which won't help you.

You'll need the Transgo "widget" or spec if it has a kit in it for the line pressure adjustment. The bands should be set to factory spec, unless Transgo says otherwise and the kit is installed. I have shift kit installation directions here, if you don't have access to the specs you need.

The four bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing should be all you need to remove the trans. There are more than three bolts holding the bell to the block, and there should be two braces on the bottom side as well.

Except in Park, the pump is not moving fluid. This is a well known design oddity in the TF transmissions.

Dexron 2

If by "line size" you mean the cooler lines, you should match the fittings on the trans. I think they are 1/4 or 5/16 ID.

I was hoping it would have details on how to get it to live with a shift kit.

Does this book go into any details on the lock up function?