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The myth that Engine Masters debunked is that aluminum heads need more compression to make the same power/torque as iron heads which is untrue. Aluminum has much less tendency to have hot spots in the chamber. Heat transfer away from the chamber is too slow to matter but localized heat buildup...

I'm excited for 440 day! ...oh wait

Hughes prides themselves on using "REAL CHRYSLER" fast-ramp cams (high lift for a given duration) which do give more performance but at the cost of valvetrain longevity (mainly springs and lifters). A buddy of mine used one of their hydraulic flat-tappet cams in the SBM in his Ramcharger truck...

Pile up some JB-Weld on the pan rails and main webs too, "DIY Race Block for cheap!"

Schneider lists new lifters on their site, I assume Hylift-Johnson is where they get them then?

In theory... big blocks have wider bore spacing so bigger bores and room for bigger valves and bigger ports. Bigger and heavier parts to move but air flow matters most in the end. SBM is a newer design than the BBM by about 6 years so the head architecture is a bit better but with similar...

From the drawing, #1 and #5 main bearings feed oil to only one rod (#1 and #8, respectively) while #2, 3, 4 main bearings each feed 2 rods (#2 through #7). Perhaps there is enough oil volume provided by half-groove main bearing for lubricating only one connecting rod. Regardless, it's really...

Egge and Delta Cams are some others.

From my understanding the contact area is minimal regardless due to the angle of the lobes and convex shape of the lifter face, although I guess I can see how the wear pattern locations would be changed with differences in lifter bore angles and such which I feel a "re-break-in" of the cam and...

It is possible to check for lifter rotation before the engine is run. Install the cam, timing set and one bank of lifters without break-in lube (just with some light oil), rotate the block so the lifters are vertical and mark them temporarily with a paint pen or marker. Rotate the engine by...

If you can match the old lifters with the same lobes then they don't need to be refaced. I did this on a 360, reused a Lunati HFT cam and lifters I had been running in a 318 and they were fine. I put 35k miles on that 360 and the lifters and lobes still looked fine when I had to tear it down...

I also do that with blocks and pretty much any mechanical part I get whether new or rebuilt, especially something meant to go inside an engine or transmission.

It's just strange how that could happen based on how oil pumps work. If they're built crappy they might not pump as well as higher-quality ones or maybe wear out prematurely but being completely unable to pump at all doesn't really make sense. It's something that's easy to check as well, not...

Load cell in a torque strap or mount is soo 20th century, nowadays we have accelerometers and GPS... Or just go to a test and tune at your local drag strip.

I think I finally fixed it. I piled up some JB into that corner on the underside of the manifold, let it set for a full day then filed it down nearly flush with the block mating surface. Then when reinstalling the manifold I put down extra-tall beads of Right Stuff on the front and back...

Not very much, also once the oil starts flowing on the drain back side it doesn't really matter. Whatever the heads and lifter valley can hold just becomes a reservoir of sorts and the faster the oil gets pumped up there the faster it flows back.

Yes cam bearings are usually flaked and pitted, should've replaced mine but I didn't and haven't had any problems... yet. Like the LS guys say, "the cam bearings are fine unless you look at them" hahaha

Factory rating for 5.2 Magnum is net so that's with single exhaust and 1990s (restrictive) catalytic converter and beer-barrel intake that runs out of steam by 4500 RPM, plus factory EFI tune which needs to be emissions-friendly and minimize knock. Swapping on a 4-bbl intake and carb...

Performer RPM, not the Air-Gap.

I watched that video yesterday, today he made one comparing costs of going roller vs. flat tappet showing it's not as expensive as people think... BUT of course he used Chevy stuff as an example. Nothing against the guy but like everything for us Mopar guys it's never that simple or cheap...

Maybe I'll use it again, lol I don't know. When I pulled this intake I got 3 corners loose but had to really pull and twist to get it to release the last corner, felt like it was glued in there. I was being paranoid about getting any dirt in the engine too maybe that's why it seemed more...

I think the only way I'd be able to get the existing oxidation layer off is with acid which seems like overkill. I'm just going to spray down the whole thing with Simple Green and give it a good blast with my garden hose nozzle, repeat a few times, carefully spray the spot with brake cleaner...

I could bring it in to work and weld it there... Or just use JB-Weld lol. I generally don't like using that stuff but I'm really not worried about it.

I should have used a thicker bead of sealer and I'll be sure to do that next time it goes on but in that corner it wouldn't have helped much even if it was 1/2" tall; all the sealant would have done was go up into the open area on the underside of the manifold. The bottom sealing surface on the...

Finally got around to pulling the intake manifold, lo and behold it is like my last guess was... Sealing surface of the intake on the bottom doesn't extend back far enough to interface with the block. You can see in the pic how the silicone isn't squished down in the corner like it should be...

You might be able to use stock pushrods but you'd be better off measuring with a checking pushrod once the heads are on with head gaskets and getting a new set, old factory pushrods often have some variation in length which can do weird stuff at higher RPM.

For a mostly street cruiser at that weight, first cam (-08) is my choice. If you do go with a 3000+ converter just be sure to get one that stays tight when not wide-open. I think a ~2500 RPM stall would be sufficient but newer custom converters can stall higher and still be tight at part...

I have that one as well and noticed that potential issue before I installed it. What I did was use a 1/4" flat round punch and carefully pushed down the bottom of the pan under that baffle to open up a small gap and allow the oil to drain past it. I also installed a fitting with a secondary...

I agree, iirc though it was kind of a case where it was (somehow?) easier for Derek's machinist friend to modify the heads to work with what he had lying around than get something Mopar-specific. It didn't make sense when I heard it and still doesn't really make sense to me now but... I guess...

There's nothing "wrong" with a 3-row core it's just that traditional manufacturing methods, particularly for copper, didn't allow for the tubes to be over a certain width so if more cooling surface area was needed they had to add a 3rd row. ECP manufactures extra-wide aluminum tubes that have...