Search results for query: *

I just figured an Airgap would be more useful to me than an M1 if I were to use it on a different engine not this engine in particular. Or, I'll just sell the M1 intake. I think I'm going to leave the LD4B as is. For the engine I have now, I don't have a spare carb and honestly, I'd have to...

I had a manual choke on it and it was sticking causing serious drivability problems. So I removed it and left it wide open.

Maybe I'll post an ad sometime asking if anyone wants to trade for an RPM Airgap. I honestly don't see what I need the M1 for unless I was doing a turbo build or drag racing as you said. I'm pretty mellow on the streets. On the freeway I try to cruise at 60 mph in 6th gear. Anywhere between...

Correct. I have not driven it with EFI. I have driven it with a carburetor.

I have it and it's sitting on my shelf. I believe it's unmoddified. It's what was on the engine when I bought it. It was a bone stock 360 with cast internals and a Paxton supercharger. I don't really want to buy another intake. Car weighs about 3500 lbs with a full tank of gas and no driver...

That's on 91 octane too!

He didn't write anything on my build sheet regarding the intake aside from "Edelbrock 4." IIRC, IMM specifically said they "Port-Matched" the intake because they ported the EQ Heads.

I have a 408 built by IMM engines. I currently have a port-matched LD4B on it and am making 523 hp @ 6000 rpm and 522 ft-lbs @ 4500 rpm on their engine dyno. I'm planning on installing a Holley Sniper on the car (hopefully before next spring, not sure if I'll upgrade to a Holley EFI Dual-Sync...

I pulled the water pump belt and I still here a knocking noise. When I started the car up, it only took one try and idling was super easy. I didn't even have to babysit the car as it idled. When I later spun the water pump pulley san belt, it seemed to rotate smoothly. I didn't feel any...

I wasn't thinking. I can unbolt the alternator.

So, I took a look at the underhood of the car for the first time since my last post. There doesn't seem to be an easy way of removing the water pump belt as there's no idler/tension pulley. I can't get an allen into my water pump pulley. It doesn't seem like I'll be able to remove the water pump...

I will try that on Friday, when I have some free time and the temp runs down to the mid-90's.

It's a T56 Manual.

Here's the video I promised:

I really wasn't able to do much with it, but on Tuesday I was able to start it after multiple starter attempts. Once I started it, I just let the car sit and warm up to operating temperature. It didn't have any problems warming up. I also used part of an old wire hanger to make something to keep...

It's an MSD Ready-to-Run ignition that doesn't have a ballast resistor. I'm glad it's idling again, I just want to make sure the starter or flywheel aren't screwed. I probably won't be able to work on it until Tuesday night.

I replaced the spark plugs. When I cranked it the first time, it still made the starter free-wheeling noise. On second crank, it started right up and didn't have any problems idling.

How do I check timing if the car won't stay running? I need to borrow/buy a timing light/gun. The car has always smelled like fuel, but yes, yesterday after starting it up, it did smell like fuel. I'm running an MSD Ready-to-Run Distributor. I'll check to see if the distributor is loose. I...

I just checked the choke and it was closed. I realized that there wasn't a rod in place to keep it from shutting. I tried starting it up (without an air cleaner) and I still had the exact same problem. The only time I got it to fire up, a fire ball came out of the carburetor.

A couple of weeks ago, I drove my car from work to home and when I got to the hill my house is on, the car randomly shut off. After that, the car would crank a bit, but wouldn't turn over. I put 2 gallons of gas in the tank and it would fire up but die immediately. After that, it would just...

Call me crazy, but I run an LD4B that is port matched to my EngineQuest heads. The 408 makes 520+ hp on pump gas. I always wonder how much power I'd gain/lose by swapping on my Mopar M1 intake.

About 5 minutes to warm up and 20-30 minutes of driving. It's usually hanging between 180-200F the entire time.

Thanks guys. Sorry for leaving the thread hanging. I've had no time to even look at the car. I did drive the car 2 weeks ago for about 30 minutes. I gave it a little less gas on start up and the car was very happy while warming up and driving. I didn't touch the fuel pressure or check for...

For the record, I wasn't expecting/blaming IMM for building me a broken motor. If it is broken, I probably would have assumed it was my fault anyway. IIRC, IMM set initial timing to about 34 degrees. Unfortunately, Brian forgot to give me cam specs and they seem to be lost. I just know it's...

Yes. It was running no more than a couple minutes and when I looked at the water temp gauge before shutting the car down, the needle never left 100F. It usually takes about 5-10 minutes before the water temp reaches 130-150F. When it's running it never deviates from 180-200F, whether in traffic...

Also a possibility. The car always smells like gasoline on start-up and runs rough. I've been wanting to put a Fitech on this car for forever just so I can turn the key and go. Just haven't had time to pull the trigger myself. I'm feeling a little more relieved that this could very well be a...

Normally, when it warms up it runs better and yes it has forged pistons. I just didn't feel comfortable getting it to operating temperature. It also tends to smell like gasoline quite a bit. It's not that good of a video, but I just wanted to capture something quick. I'll get my valve covers...

So, I think I might have a bad engine problem. The engine was built by IMM about two years ago. It's a 408 stroker with forged SCAT internals, ICON pistons, 800 Holley DP, about 10:1 compression, Enginquest heads, 1.6 chromolly rocker arms, all new valve train, etc. Everything in the engine is...

Before and after. Was a bone stock 360 with a Paxton supercharger, J heads, M1 intake making 390 whp. Now is a 408 built by IMM, Engine Quest heads, port matched LD4B, 850 Holley DP, forged internals, etc. made 523 hp and 522 ft-lbs on engine dyno. Still have supercharger, heads, and M1...

I say go with the 3.58" stroke. Middle of the road, may be light enough for higher revs and still produce some torque.