Search results for query: *

Always run a relay on anything high voltage/ amperage. it takes the load off your switches and controls - other wise running 90-125 amps thru the ignition switch will heat it up and cause intermittent connections on anything that gets power from the ign switch

nothing cleans gunk off of an old car like dawn and hot water and a medium stiff brush

DON'T DO IT !!! I used terminal strips just like them a few years ago and it was a pain in the *** when something went wrong , and believe me something will go wrong. They don't take well to vibration and jerking around on the wiring. Plus as you mentioned water proofing is another matter...

thanks guys

I been looking for a sparkplug heat range /cross reference chart and haven't had any luck . So now I turn to you . Does anyone have one or know where I can download one thanks

do you have any stereo shops where you live ? they usually have one on hand

I'll be honest with you. I also ran a dual point forever and never had a problem with it. Always rangood started good. But I decided it was time to join the 21st century and go electronic. I can't say it runs any better or harder cuz I had the points unit set up perfectly but I did notice it...

is it point or electronic?

I opened mine up to .044 to help keep it from loading up. I am running a Accel Super coil (just because it was free) and a HEI /Mopar distributor. And it runs great

I bought 2 rev limiter from them. The first one was junk and customer service was terrible. The second one was fine. Also bought set of roller rocker arms which are very good. also bought fuel pump -it works OK. so I give them a rating of 75% good or 3 out of 4 stars

This car doesn't have a ammeter guage in it it uses a volt guage. But I have to assume 3 new ones would rule out the v-reg. I agree ...spend the money on quality parts and leave the white box parts for the chevy and fords I totally re wired the car a year ago and replaced the bulk head...

Here is one I thought would be a simple fix. When running my volt guage will jump back and forth between 12 & 14 volts then steady and do it again continuously. Also with the lights on you can see them pulse up and down (headlights and dash lites both) .Thinking it was a brush bouncing in the...

On my cuda the big ground went directly to the engine (for the starter draw) and the little one went to the inner wheel well right below starter relay. _ Purpose is to ground everything interior wise so youre instruments dont go searching for ground thru your gas guage or temp guage. Some peeps...

I agree it sounds like a bad alt. Once you disconect the power lead to the alt take a dvom meter and check that lead to ground incase the wire has shorted somewhere inside the harness and wrapped under the tape

Usually flickering or pulsating lights are caused by a diode on the rectifier plate being bad another thing that makes the lights flicker is a brush bouncng in the brush holder. We have a saying around the shop... "Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good!" a third thing to do this is a...

Make sure when you hit the key you have at minimum 10.5 volts on the big starter terminal if it drops away to zero then comes back with the key off you have either an open cell in your battery or poor connection (usually ground). Also you can check starter draw and load test battery I just...

The regulator will run hot to the touch . Have you checked the supply voltage? If you are pumping 14- 16 volts to it continuously it will overheat also poor or insufficient ground to the dash will do the same thing.

glad to be some help

That is a classic example of a bad ballast resistor

the difference is candlepower I don't know which one is brightess

I ran mine from the relay throught the clutch switch to the starter ...works fine for me

Dim bulbs are often caused by poor grounds. go through the system and clean or add some new grounds

the local plastic shop here went broke and the other 2 won't sell to public only large businesses...sux I found some 12 x 12 dot legal blanks for $45 each ...kind of pricey i'll keep looking you all keep thinkin' ...LOL

thanks that is an idea I hadn't thought of! any other ideas?

I guess you could call this an electrical question since its about tail lights. I am looking for a couple flat pieces of tail light lense - I am looking to make some custom tail lights- I have seen on a couple of the TV shows they make new tail lights or light panels on some cars (like...

I believe you need to get the ralleye instrument cluster to get the stock type of guage (basically just a lo-hi face on it ). I would find a guage of the proper size (reguardless of brand) and slip it in where the idiot lights are now and save some $$$$

I would still use the relay. The purpose of the relay is to take the load off of the ignition switch. Cheaper and easier to replace a burned out relay than an ignition switch

here is a diagram for a Dart which should be almost identical http://moparsa2z.com/web/archive/electrical/wiring_diagrams/dodge/73DartWiring.zip

Sorry I didnt get back to you sooner but I got sooo busy at work . Scamper 340 ...yes that is exactly what I was talking about thanks GTgrinly.... I have all new wiring on both sides of the firewall but just the gang plug Is where I had to stop till now..thanks Bulkhead connector ...I drew...

On my car there is only one large 30 pin (approx) plug that goes thru the firewall. It is about 1.5" x1.5" and connects everything from the engine to the interior /dash.