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I have been a mopar freak since the mid sixties and have never run into this problem. I snapped off the threaded end of my strut rods trying to get the nut off. In the process of making a new strut rod I discovered that the threads are 14mm x2.0 . Has anyone else run into this? In have owned...

hey duster.... I checked out bergman...nice product but a little expensive, but if I can't figure out my problem that may be the way I go...thanks Dano.... the headers are a set of polished stainless (I don't remember the brand). Everything else is OK....it is definately the way the tubes are...

In doing a refresh on my smallblock '68 cuda, I am changing the heads and the headers. Problem is one of the header tubes (cyl. #1) is hitting on the p/s box, right at the sector adjusting screw. Never had a header hit there before. Looks like I would have to collapse the tube about 1/3 to 1/2...

I got mine at advance auto parts in the" help" section

I use KYB gas shocks ... I've been happy with them

check with Mancini

I got to agree! I haven't ever had mine on the track and I have a full 10 point cage in it.I admit there has been a little street racing (weekly in summer) For one thing it really stiffened up the body and suspension.Plus on the street I would hate to get hit by some idiot in a pickup.... at...

goes on either way

I am running KYB on mine except they are B or C body I forget (could be the same) but they are longer than A body I remember. with my car sitting on the ground with full tank of gas, and back seat missing and fiberglass rear bumper my shox are almost in the middle of their travel

Your probably better off having one built to fit , but as far as pre built goes Competition Engineering's kit is as good as it gets . Not a snap fit kit tho. You have to trim to fit so you can make it as tight or loose as you want.

Truth be ...you can never have too much tire under a cuda Here are my 15.50 M/T on 12 rims . I could go 2-3 inches wider if I could find rims with 9-10 inch back space

back halved or half assed don't matter .... go as radical as you want it still keeps a mopar on the road LOL

Thanks ... I just got educated Just looks like Cal-Traks to me

what the hell are assasin bars something like ladder bars???

I'm running 15 x 12 with 7" back space and a 15.50 tire on my cuda which is about the same, and if I could have found them, I could of went with either a 14" wide wheel or 9" of backspace.

That's like the one I started with, mine was by CE but they are all the same. A year later I bought some tubing and bent the rest of the cage and added street bars and a couple thru the firewall to the front sub frames. It was cheaper and better designed.

On a street driven Cuda I would definitely go Power Steering, I got a reman steering box For $100 from Advance 4-5 years ago and haven't had a leak from it yet.As for headers, Hedman hedders fit well and doesn't hit my steering gear (but it is close).

I did one of the first A body conversions they made. This was about 4-5 years ago. I ended up spending about $250-300 for everything. I haven't had a single problem with it and it stops straight and true. I know they have made some changes and improvements since then and can only think it is...

I screwed up some years ago when I replaced my steering box with a rebuilt unit from advance. I exchanged my units and forgot to get a little restrictor that was in the supply line between the pump and box. I didn't have any idea how big the hole was in the restrictor so i experimented and on...

my experience with long shackles is that if the springs are tired and worn out it won't hardly lift it at all. It might initially raise it a bit but soon these shackles wont be long enuff as the springs will sag more

JB welk although it is a miracle cure for somethings it is still just a plastic epoxy and won't take the abuse of a ball joint. A good welder knows how to weld the b/j in with out boiling the grease out

I use KYB gas shox on my cuda. Launches well and still rides well

on my cuda I am using KYB gas shocks seem to work fine - I didn't go with longer shox like they recommend as moving the springs inboard makes the stock length shock longer acting

Basically they are pretty tough cars and take quite a beating ... but it is 40+ years old. First thing to go on mine was the rear end then the tranny

Okay , here is the situation: Several weeks ago I moved my springs inboard and added SS springs. Before I did this I took some measurements diagonally from the factory alignment hole in the front subframe to the pin in the leaf springs. Both were the same (within 1/8th inch) which says to me...

I am sorry I dropped the ball on this one. But here is the skinny. It wasn't the return line but the pressure line I restricted. In the first picture is the fitting on the box with an approx hole size of 3/8 - in the 2nd picture is the adaptor I made with a 1/4 hole size (I also made washers...

ya guys I did this a couple years ago so mem is fuzzy . Tomorrow I will pull it and measure it for ya and a couple of pics too maybe

i have a cure for that wandering I always hated the feel of Mopar p/s myself ....then I learned how to correct it by accident. Now my car steerswith the proper feel to it. I replaced the steering box with a rebuilt one from Advance Auto for $100 ....But I forgot to swap out the restrictor...

that depends on how much it is sagging now. They raised my cuda about 2"

the ones on my 68 cuda are about 2 years old and still good but they do seem to soften up and settle down after some use (too ridgid when first installed anyway)