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Your most money will come from breaking it down and selling it by the piece. I agree with the other comment about lucky at half the price. If it was the 1973 up set up it would be worth more money.

9" or 10" drums? The 1968 K doesn't normally bring a lot because it is the biscuit mount. The UCA are plentiful for the 68 so they seldom will sell for much.

What year are the parts off of and what brake set up?

The unknowns is why I personally ask questions before giving numbers. The member that had three of the same part number of Moog pitman arms that didn't match also had a miss-matched bunch of suspension parts that was causing problems and found a cracked K frame before it was also sorted out.

This poor guy went through a lot of crap on his Moog pitman arms. Since Moog has gone overseas the quality has gone to hell. He ended up with a lot of other problems that the members helped work through during this 15 page thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=160746

Please take time to read the information 67Dart273 posted above. Parts on these cars have been swapped over the years so there are many times a picture will answer a question immediately. You are ASSUMING that the car still has the factory parts but he said that what they are showing him isn't...

I am not one for giving what may not be correct information until I ask the correct questions. Since he has already stated that the part they are sending him to isn't correct, I wouldn't go out on a limb and say that he definitely needs a Moog K7075. Identification is key. I know you love...

Rather than us having to do a guessing game of what you need, how about you posting a picture of what you have so we can identify it?

Cut off the idler arm mount because there is a demand for it on the one year 1967 K-frame. With that mount a person can use the 68 up idler arm.

Lower ball joints are the only different parts. You can look up the part numbers at http://www.oreillyauto.com I used to known them by heart but have forgotten them now.

Would it be cheaper to have a machine shop do it since you will only be doing it one time on your car?

Replace the bushing. All the shock mounts I have come across that piece wasn't threaded on to the plate. Used to cut them off and use a Ford shock mount but couldn't locate one of those about a month ago either.

Bill, Figuring the pitch is over my head so I will have to just subscribe to the thread, read, listen and hopefully learn something. I do know getting the correct length drive shaft in will change your pinion angle.

You didn't read it in this thread because it is in a combination of three other threads. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=285803 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=285887 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=286054

Those are the correct number for the tie rod ends for your car and they are the same across the board according to my parts books. The front end upgrade consisted in brakes, larger torsion bars (sometimes), maybe shocks and a sway bar. Some members have used the heavier C body tie rod ends. I...

Before modifying something else I would deal with the short drive shaft first. Something messed the old yoke up and it is pretty likely still involved in what you have going on now.

What are we working on? Is the 74 Duster a donor car or the car you are having issues with? Pictures of what you see and of the area in general would help us help you.

How long do you want your tranny to last?

It might help others to help you by posting pictures of what you have as well as your old part. I have done multiple searches and have found no O'ring listed but that doesn't mean it isn't out there.

Yes, they are the same. While you can use the disc brake set up off many Mopars, the upper control arm have to be off an A-body that uses the large ball joint only.

This is the seal that I am used to there. DMT Black A Body 67 74 Steering Column Gasket Dart | eBay

Picture? It has been too long for me to remember what is there. Maybe it is something different than my 68.

Check out this thread. It may not be identical but it will be very close to what you need to do. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=163786

You talking about the boot?

Make sure that your car hasn't been converted to big ball joint..... If it isn't converted then the following would apply. The idler arm is specific for 1967. It will look similar on both ends. The 1968 idler arm has a bolt that goes through it for the K frame. If you have disc brakes then...

So then this would be the correct statement??? Front bushing hole goes away from ball joint, rear goes toward the ball joint.

The more I read this thread the more confusing it gets. In the blue statement above it would simply move the entire ball joint away from the car. The intention is to rotate it back isn't it? This clearly shows they go in opposite directions so what is correct?

How about some video of the underside?

The sleeve is the same for all the tie rods asked about in the original post so I think you are correct about the offset. Moog part number ES319S.

Ball joint is different because the holes are larger but the lca is the same. I believe the bolts are 9/16 for the KH and yours can be drilled out to work. Double check the bolt size. You didn't ask but the upper control arm is identical.