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No problem.

I have some new ones and I would sell you one for $25 shipped. I am down in my back so it would be a couple of days before I could find the boxes they are in.

Pull the whole cap off the valve cover. That PVC comes out from the bottom after the nut is removed. I don't think you can buy a new one made like that so you will have to clean it up and reuse it if you want the style.

These are what is available for the tool loan program in my city. Pay a deposit, use it and return it for a 100% refund. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CST-Cooling-system-tester-adapter/_/N-263r?itemIdentifier=84330_0_0_...

A pressure tester will show the problem.

It is quicker to get a pressure tester, fill the radiator with water and pressure test the system. Since it is an external leak it will leak at the problem area. Pressure testers are on the tool loan program at Oreilly's, Advance and AutoZone in my town.

I tried to give one away with 58K one owner miles and no one would come get it. If you have a buyer sell it for what ever the two of you can agree on.

I want a 65 Galaxie again. I bought one when I was 16 and ooohhh the memories.

Looks like they are making white lithium grease in a spray... I never used spray only the stuff that comes in a grease gun tube. I stored a 1927 Buick short block that I had coated with it for over 12 years and there was no rust.

WD-40 evaporates.

It has been a while so something may be better but I have always used white lithium grease.

The VIN question is asked all the time about the /6 and there is no stamp on it from what I understand.

You was right the first time.

Pictures will help us help you.

Using a drip tray you will be looking at a big fire should you have a leak. Keeping your equipment up and use good quality clamps/hoses would be my suggestion.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970162444&postcount=7

By the time you find a used one, ship it, have it ground and then buy a set of bearings one of these might be about the same price.

Xs3 and make sure you have the correct dipstick for the engine. I have seen this happen when there was too much oil in the engine because the dipstick was the wrong one.

Aren't those Hyper Pak manifolds?

Put a pressure tester on the system while it is cold and check it out. What may be evaporating when it is hot might show up when the system when it is cold. I would also suspect the heater core.

You will also find the crank register for the torque convertor hub is too large on the new engine. There is an aftermarket bushing that will correct that issue. I am not sure if the newer flex plate will bolt up to the older tranny. Someone will come along and tell you for sure.

That is nasty.

This thread has a lot of good information. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=226525

Have you been soaking the bores? I have drove pistons out by using a 2x4 stuck in the bored on the top of the piston but that might not be the wisest approach.

Yes, the rods are worth saving. They are hard to find and expensive when you do since they are in high demand. Have you removed the crankshaft? I have found that it made it easier to get the pistons out.

I don't know when Chrysler started rubber mounts but Buick had them by at least 1927 on all their cars. Buick also never made a flathead. All their motors were valve in head.

If you are getting anything out of the spark plug holes then they are not sealed and you are loosing compression.

Bingo. Install the correct plugs and see what happens. These old flat head engines are different than our valve in head engines.

I have cleaned up some really nasty Pennzoil motors with diesel as Rob said above.

Before you get too involved it pays to make sure the starter isn't hung up in the ring gear. I have ran in to this a couple of times when trying to loosen up what I thought was a seized engine.