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Not a ton of help, but i found this in a old sale ad...

Not that it applies here since trans tech has advance so far, but many decades ago when guys were using ''stockish 727's'' i was told not to neutral the car at pre stage to ''clean it up'' as many did, but get into 1st gear earlier and go under power in to the lights for 2/3 ft or so. Just...

I agree. Your gonna have less drop on 2-3 and with a light pedal at low rpm's you wont notice much. Your cruise rpm surely shows it's in high gear. Next time out, get into a bit, like 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and i think you'll see it's working fine.

I'm gonna be way more conservative here... Your compression looks spot on, you live in the UK so hot temps are rare. A 4" arm will eat duration with that [email protected] cam. Should act more like a 232 in a 360. As long as your pump petrol is good and you can run some aggressive initial timing, i...

I assume this has been a issue the whole time you've owned the car? Some of us are more sensitive to feel, noise, smell, etc. Trying to diagnose over the net can be a real challenge. Meaning it's difficult to tell how severe or not a certain symptom is. I don't know if you have someone close...

Man those headers look tight to the pan area in that photo. I vote for metal lines also. You may have to go up next to block and then down again for good clearance. A lot of trial & error to bend, but i'ts worth the effort to get them right.

I know they came in some of the Dip/cop 360 cars & i've had a few in the trucks i had, but if it did'nt come in it, i'd shy away. Sadly, with the effort involved, a better alternative might be the 8.8 Ford.

I agree with the above statements. I've run a lot of Lakewood shields on many different makes and it won't seriously effect your adjustment. But I'd be concerned about that bushing being loose. Honestly, I never have run across that before.

Is your 3.23 wore out? Or are you looking for more performance? If the original rear is hanging in there, I personally can't see putting the $$$ into that 7.25. Performance wise, drop your rear tire diameter one inch and you'll never know the difference. :)

Kick down/throttle pressure linkage???

Welcome to FABO! 1k plus HP equals.....Dana in a Mopar!!! The only reason to go with a 9" in my opinion is if you need to swap gears on a regular basis at certain tracks? I have to believe the Strange S60 will get you what you're looking for if your gear choice is set in stone? Call...

Summit? Install kits too? http://www.summitracing.com/search/section/differential-rear-end-components/axle-model/chrysler-7-25-in/ring-gear-bolts/8

Once you understand the geometry you need, it can be done/fabricated... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1969429706&postcount=19

A 8.25" would be a nice upgrade. Although it may take a little hunting to find a drum to drum sure grip with the ratio you'd like to use. What's it going behind? A Slant, stock teen, or something more...:D

The 2595 should equal a build date of 9/4/1968. I think Fishy's assessment is correct?

......... Sorry, I'm just tired :). I will keep a eye on this thread though.

If you haven't already, post in the "wanted" section here. You may get a bite on a whole pumpkin ready to go? Although shipping cost's may be a issue with that?

..:thumbrig:..DD Obviously this is why I left mine to the professionals...lol.

I'm no rear end builder, heck I always farmed mine out. But common sense tells me 6 thou on the pinion depth is miniscule at this point. You're just in the "mockup" stage... I edited this post because being a smart a$$ just doesn't work for me :). I'm Sorry.

If the 9426 is the date code, it corresponds with the 10,000 day calendar as May 19, 1987

If it's this... 7 1/4" You may want to start from scratch and upgrade to a larger housing. If it's a 8 1/4" You might look into finding a Dakota/Truck unit used, that will work in it with a decent gear. I've never fooled with the 8 1/4", but plenty of guys here have. I'm sure you'll...

Gilbert, you really could end up with $800/$1000 bucks building a solid 8.25 rear end. If there's any chance of finding a drum to drum 8.75 that's in good condition with a sure grip & 3.23's/3.55's I'd look there first. Right or wrong, the first thing I look at is under the rear end of cars on...

If it was me, I'd probably run what you have for now, and keep a eye out for a solid 8 3/4 that has a gear ratio that will work for you. It may take a little time to find one locally, but with the BB, I wouldn't put the coin in the 8.25 if you want different gears & a sure grip.

A "mild" 383 with street tires shouldn't be a huge issue, in my opinion. Now, as far as gearing, it could very well be a 2.41. Not very performance oriented, but the teeth on the low numbered R&P's have a lot of meat on them. Is it a SureGrip?

You need to pull that drum and do a visual inspection and make sure there's no gear oil getting by the seal into the brakes! I assume you feel this when the brakes are applied, even if it's only lightly? I had one on another brand do the same exact thing. The bearing/axle surfaces were...

I believe that's for the seal.....so it doesn't bind and pull the spring out of it?

That's a good question. I'm curious too? I've never looked at one side by side, but the 741 has a much smaller pinion stem then the 489. Maybe the gear area on the 741's pinion was a smaller diameter also and the clearance was made up by a thicker ring gear? I'm sure some of the more...

Your considering the price of two "chunks".....yikes? Run the 2.94's on the street and just do any, cough/cough, street action from a roll, I've been there done that with decent results :D. Then just build your strip gears to whatever the car really likes/needs.

I love when you chime in on these threads "fishy". I've learned enough from you over the years that if I live long enough, I may actually try to build one of these contraptions on my own.....then again, :D:D:D

I'd run the 904 you have now for a driver. If you think his 727 is a decent build, I'd buy it and put it under the bench, for now. Could come in handy some day? As far as buying it just for the MVB, you don't need it in my opinion.