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Not a problem. I asked Andrew a while back on a source for those Cir connectors he used. I can't remember how much they were though off the top of my head. its been a good while. IIRC is was like in the realm of $27

does your intake not have provisions for a coil?

I'd ask Andrew (Blue Missile). I know he is running some in his Duster and he has almost as many electronics in his car as an F16 fighter jet. He posted a link to them in his thread. I'll try and see if I can dig it up as that thread is quite long EDIT: He used Cir connectors. Here's a good...

I didn't know if Mopar cars used the same ground system as the trucks

bad ground/connection. clean and check the connections at the headlight switch, hi/low foot switch, and headlight grounds. My truck did this for a while til I hammered out all that stuff

Yeah, I wasn't raw-doggin' it this time LMAO!! That's pretty neat. I was actually thinking about that earlier, just buying a big spool of 8mm wire and just buying a few boxes of terminals at some point so I always have plug wires on hand

is it out of style to make your own wires or was that just last years trend? :toothy10:

That wasn't happening with these wires. I really tried to do that and it just didn't wanna go. I spent a solid 10 minutes trying to push the wire through to no avail

Okay guys! I said I would make a walkthrough of how to make your own plug wires and here it is. This was my first time making plug wires, but it's not like it takes a genius to do it though. Its very simple and only takes a little while to make a set that may fit better or as good as your...

surprising that they don't sell for more then but I guess it'd be considered an outdated unit now and everyone wants the top of the line/current tech

there was one on here a while back for $50. sold in a week or two. looks neat. wonder how it performs. probably the same as a Chrysler box just no more ballast

IIRC, its in the trunk

should be close enough to work. I'm gonna be using a '72 Ford F700 cluster in my D100 and when I looked into it, it was close enough to work but off by a smideon

Neither, because they are both incorrect for that sending unit

This subject has been rehashed so many times, just do a quick search for HID and slantsixdan and you will find legitimate info from tests that have been done from someone who knows their ****.

Voltage regulator.

I'm gonna go ahead and say what needs to be said. If someone REALLY wants your car. They will get it. Locking your hood is a good idea. I'd install a set of hood pins in reverse or something to that general gist. You want the lock to be hard to get to, not visible unless they are really looking...

Here's experience from someone who dont have a whole lot of experience. I wish my vacuum advance worked on my truck that I daily drive every day. it sucks. run the advance.

That does make sense. Just gotta figure out whats going on now though

after looking at a pic of what one looks like, I realized they were in my fuse box. I wiggled em some and removed em, but still no luck. Might have to take a shot at replacing em. I have noticed my right signal occasionally acts up like it won't flash sometimes. doesn't happen very often though...

Where is said switch located? aI've never fooled with one. And please apologize my ignorance cudavert, I was just trying to provide as much info as possible to try and get a more direct diagnosis Ran a ground wire to the housing. no luck:wack:. I'll try the turn signal switch once I figure out...

They say its hard to see much with your head up your *** Rob. I guess some members here have mastered typing that way.

Rob, at the auto parts stores, you can find the heat shrinking butt connectors and twist the two wires together on one side and run one out the other end and then run some heat shrink over it. it should stay put and be well insulated. Let's see what Del says though. This is essentially what I...

I've traced the power all the way down. Its definitely getting there without any issues. I think I will try this. This is something I have yet to try. Yep, its the tail light complete from the lens all the way to the pigtails that connect it into the harness for reverse lamp and all that good...

Yep, no avail there. the whole tailight assembly has been replaced. It's a tin housing with a plastic lense. And I checked for ground just like you said, I clamped my testlight onto the socket, blub in power on, and touched it to a good known ground and not a damn thing happened. I also used...

I can't get my right hand side taillight to work. it gets power, it gets ground, it gets everything it'd need to light up yet it doesn't! I even replaced the whole harness to the taillight and reverse light on that side along with a new taillight housing. This is on my '74 D100. I have tried...

You both are gold members. I'm sure there is a few examples in the blue room somewhere...

Remove air cleaner. Remove dizzy. Mark its position on the housing and onto the block so you can drop it in and not have to fuss with it. Remove your coil if its in the back like mine. I believe its a 7/16" wrench to remove it from the block. Id use a lil tiny bit of vinyl tape on the threads of...

This happened all the time on my truck. it'd just fall off. As Redfish said, check that. Between what Del(67Dart273) and RedFish have said or will say, you are pretty set. They are the resident experts on electrical and dashes.

'74