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Obviously...needs one that looks like this: btw...its not for sale.

thats not the Drivers side manifold for a 360 Dart Sport

http://youtu.be/LFh9FEQ_2e0

Use Dynomax Ultraflo's, or Thrush Glass Packs....but make the exhaust exit at little bit out from the rear bumper.....Problem will be solved.

they look good., overall ...but they are not T304 stainless steel, tig welded. I could do better.....but I wont do it cheaper.

Got your PM....checked my 74 Duster 360 Manifold Numbers as requested. As Follows: Driver Side 3614668-1 7-13-73 F Passenger Side 3418623-1 Both have the Pentastar to the right of the casting numbers.

Exhaust Pipe Diameter is comparable to Soda Straws. You ever notice how when you go to Taco Villa....you get a Monster 44oz cup with a 6" wide lid, and a tiny .25" diameter 12" long straw? You go over to McDonalds, you get a 32oz cup, a 4" lid and a .375" (3/8") 10" straw. Which one can...

pics would help a ton. I have stock 360 manifolds and home made 2.5" Mandrel Bent headpipes on my 1974 Duster 360. For the Passenger side manifold...it had a Round-tapered flange...with two bolts...... I went to the local muffler shop, got a BELL put on a 2.5" pipe about 4" long with the...

I'll bring this back.....I have intentions of following through with my SB Stainless Steel Log Header for A-bodies....but getting my Duster up and running is my first priority.

I think my header design idea covered ALL the bases, but never got this much attention. I am still in the process of finding myself a 73/74 Duster or Dart Sport V8 with Power Brakes/Steering that I will do mock up and tooling on...And I plan on offering a option of either mild steel or T304...

It is T304/T321 JamesDart...do some stainless exhaust research...you will see nothing else mentioned BUT T304/T321....and MiG welds look like crap in comparison to proper TiG technique....I hate bb's and splatter....to each their own.

T304 Stainless turns a goldish color when heated....and T321 Stainless changes color too, T321 is the most Heat resilient form of stainless...it is also very strong tensile strength wise....therefore harder to bend...so the guy wasn't lying to you. For a car such as yours....I would go with...

T304 or T321 Stainless Steel is the best alternative to your exhaust system rusting...not paint. Engine Exhaust temps range from 700* F to 1000* F for naturally aspirated engines....Turbo Exhaust system temps go on up to 1600*. You probably COULD paint your exhaust system from the Header...

Agreed, Adam. The price difference between a Press Bender and a Mandrel Bender are night and day. Press Bender: http://www.gesusa.com/BendPak-1502BA-302-Digital-Pipe-Bender-p/102509.htm Mandrel Bender: http://www.bii1.com/images/rotarty-draw-benders/mb-350-large.jpg The price difference...

Mandrel bent pipe flows FULL FLOW everywhere because it maintains its inner volume throughout the bends, whereas a Press-bent Pipe is restictive and causes drag on the exhaust gases.....this is a well documented fact on Turbo Cars....and every horsepower is crucial to a already disadvantaged 4...

If your gonna do this in your garage or driveway..you need a Cherry picker to lift the engine up and off the mounts or you'll never get the driver side header in.....the last time I installed headers, it was on a 1969 Dart and I ended up using a huge wooden block and jacking the front end so...

I read somewhere on the net that DUAL 2" exhaust will support 400hp. DUAL 2.5" will support 600hp. And DUAL 3" will support over 750hp with little restriction. I personally know guys who push over 1000whp through a single stalk of 4" on turbo 4 cylinders. Use accordingly. Back...

H-pipe exhaust systems balance the pressure between the banks, X-pipe systems do more by pulling the gases on each pulse of exhaust. There is quite a bit of info on the subject...here is a quick Google Search Result from the popular Car Craft Exhaust System Comparo...

I do not desire to debate anyone, but the easiest way to remove ALL the backpressure on an engine is to: (eight) Adequate Sized (for the air flow) Individual pipes, non-baffled, exiting as close to the head as possible. A properly designed and sized exhaust system with an X pipe has been...

3" would be good for a Forced Induction 318-416, but for a NA 318...2.5" is probably overkill. Nice Color.

Heh, ya its far cheaper IMO, to purchase 3" Mandrel Bends, flanges, and whatever else you may need and find a buddy or shop that will let you use a Mig Welder and make your own exhaust system. Here is what I did when I upgraded from 2.5" - to 3" on my turbocharged 4 banger...

^ What Adam said. 330hp is the choke point on a single 2.5" pipe. If your /6 HP goal is higher than 330, go with a single 3" pipe,...it does not choke until 600 Hp. :read2: :cheers:

Ok....For a Naturally Aspirated 318, 2.5" Crush Bent will be overkill. 2.5 Straight Pipe has the flow capability to handle 350hp through (1) Stick of 2.5" Pipe. x2 would be sufficient for 700hp before it becomes a restriction. How would I know? I have stuffed 350hp through a single stalk...

$600-650 is not a bad deal if you are getting a Mandrel Bent Stainless Exhaust System..... I don't know where to get one of those except a private garage with all the components already sourced and acquired....just mock up and TIG weld.

I vote for 2.5" a single stick of 2.5" has a flow capacity of about 330hp airflow wise....with 2.5" duals and your statement that you will run a 273/318 forever...you will never outflow the capabilty of 650hp of air that the 2.5" pipes can handle. 2.25 will limit you to 450-500hp before it...