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I personally dont like the colors either. I remember when Longacre just had plan ones. I just looked and they are either colored or "carbon fiber"

Yes if the ballast resistor is burnt out then it wont flow any juice. I think anyways. There what, like $10...why not? You already have tried everything else. You will have an all new ignition system when your done. I had a similar problem. I bought a new ECU, rebuilt the dist., new ballast...

And yes the ballast resistor gets hot

what are the volts at the positive side of the coil when cranking? Try the ballast resistor

Well I took my stock seat and seat belts out of mine and its always started no problem, it had an annoying buzzer as well that I unplugged, if you look under the seat between the springs and the cushion there is a pressure switch that grounds out on the springs when you sit down. Then from there...

does it crank when you try to start it and not fire or does it just not do anything when you turn the key over

my dad said its a bypass switch, in case your seat belt switch doesnt work you stick a pen in the end of the red thing to reset it. there is a button in there. at least thats what he said...i think it was something on those lines lol, its been awhile since he told me

Thanks Steve I finally got it in working order on thursday night. I couldnt get the socket out of the lens so I took the bumper back off wire brushed all the bolts took the lens off the bumper cleaned off some surface rust put it all back together and the work great now. It was driving me...

Alright after messing around with a jumper wire that I had I took the jumper wire and put it on the outer side of the socket, the lip that sticks up through the lense and everything worked...So the one contact is low and the other is high and the socket itself is the ground. So now it comes down...

Hey guys. I just finished swapping a 73 rear end onto my 74 Dart swinger. Quater extensions tail panel...everything. Now I am trying to figure out the wiring. The 74 wiring harness has 6 wires, one black, two pink, one green, one brown, and one grey. The 73 has 7 wires. Three black, one pink...

I'll post up an exhaust note probably tomorrow...:thumbrig:

well heres what i did....new cap, new rotor...nothing. tried a new ignition box, nothing, new ballast resistor nothing...so for kicks and giggles i threw a coil at it and it fired right up...lol so now i got a nice shiny new pick up coil, cap and rotor =) it sounds sooooo nice hearing this thing...

it is in neutral I believe Ill try it if its not and I replaced the ballast resistor yesterday when i started throwing parts at it trying to solve my problem lol. maybe i'll try park. or an entirely new dist. bleh day three on this fiasco and it seems like Im just pouring more $$$$ into. oh well...

yeah theres the ground from the motor to the firewall and also the ground from the battery to the fenderwell. Thats what i was thinking at first was ground issue...its all grounded. and ya its the same dist out of the old engine. the only thing after i made sure it was all grounded was went and...

I swapped rotors and still nothing. The engine is grounded from the battery to the drivers side cylinder head and theres a ground strap on the intake manifold to the firewall as well. Theres also a body ground off the battery to the radiator support. Could it be.........ugh. this is so far...

I had a similar problem to what you guys are explaining but my solution was the ignition wire under the steering column had melted the plastic connector and had lost connection. so i just by passed it... i took a pic

yeah it throws sparks.. it has a nice bright blue consistent spark...the rotor seems fine...ill throw on a different one and give it a try. thank you for the help

hey guys, ok heres the problem I will try to be the most specific to help you guys understand the problem and maybe help me out. here it goes. new engine is in everything hooked up like it was before (when it was running with the 360) and now it wont start. The coil is hooked up correctly...