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You might still have marking/scars where the large bolts in quarter panels were. That would get you close to square with the body and side glasses. The header section of the frame is attached with 2 or 3 bolts ( I forget ) in slotted holes on each side. These may be rusted. One of mine was...

Awesome! Coat the heck out of it with something to prevent its rusting again and good to go.

Aftermarket vendors like Classic Industries has 69 Dart listed separate from 67 and 8 Dart. B'cuda listed separate from those. Not a definite answer but a clue that there must be some difference.

According to aftermarket application charts, Channel run for 67 and later are different from pre 67. I know the later has the glass resting in one small saddle at lower center. Only the plastic pieces attached to the glass and sliding in the forward channel prevent this glass from tilting out of...

Half were "maid", the other half butler LOL

That is a cycling circuit breaker mounted with this switch.

You could use a lesser switch like newer vehicles have if you install relays to handle the high current like those newer vehicles have. Total cost would likely be more than the proper type switch with a new circuit breaker too. 93 Lebarron had a nice little back lighted switch but it was...

No I haven't tried this. I'm only spit balling ideas. Aerosol foam like Great Stuff brand is available in a variety of densities. I've seen it used on homemade coolers, bait tanks, etc... Low density should compress enough to pull the skin over it. When you took your buckets apart, you found a...

So now we have 3 different situations here. My vert rear seat parts aren't rusted nearly as bad as yours. Another member has no bones to start with. I'm going to share my morning coffee thoughts for your consideration... If I go out and take the rear seat bottom out of my 96 camry I wont find...

If my memory serves, a straight stick of generic welt channel did work on a members early a-body. This 67 and later seat back has a radius. Channel forms dont bend easy. The welt C could distort. Generic, aluminum or PVC, for this application is a gamble. I'm not a gambler. I would drive the car...

I don't have a link. I don't know if its still available. @4spdragtop My point was that they do appear once in a while.

I have similar plan in mind. My vert seat bottom is not rusted beyond repair. Worst part is sides and front curves where perimeter frame meets the floor. Haven't attempted yet or decided would it be easier to turn the rust free notchback seat bottom into a vert seat bottom. I noticed the...

Brothers 93 Mustang vert has thick clear adhesive backed protector/cover on the header. It had yellowed and cracked up with age. He replaced it with new pre cut when the car was repainted but I don't know where he found it.

Production would cost less if the ash trays are deleted. Longer pads to delete the rear ash trays in my 67 vert is a project within a project. Good luck to all.

I dont know exactly. In the interest of protecting my 50 yr old wiring I would start with 30 amp.

I think the original chrysler top switch had a circuit breaker mounted on/with it. The switch you purchased from ebay will work but you probably should add a circuit breaker.

Optional wheel well liners were available for front and rear. They were molded with red color material for some reason. Extremely rare and priced accordingly.

All doors have the dimples stamped where these holes and parts are added to vert only.

YearOnes description says they go on the top frame header. The insulator cup goes in the car. I'm confused too.

I didn't suggest that switch for this application without relays.

Top switch from any vert operates the same but... the newer examples use relays to conduct the higher current so their manually operated switches don't need to be substantial in construction and don't need the large wires routed to them. If you do go with a generic switch without relays, marine...

OEM rear glass in B'cuda vert was nearly as big as the notchback glass. Aftermarket glass will be a smaller generic piece. Serves the purpose. I witnessed a few top installs while hanging around at upholstery shop as a kid. Just enough to know I wouldn't attempt it. I can't afford that screw...

Even though convertible specific, these came in 2 different sizes. I have read that the larger ones were first generation verts, then smaller ones came with 2nd generation, 1967, for one year, maybe 2, then back to the larger ones again. Don't know if that's true or not. The larger ones were...

If these fixtures are going to focus light only into the rear foot wells, dark carpet, especially black will absorb most of the light. Maybe add 2 more at the kick panels or center console to light front foot wells?

Yeah there is a tag lamp fixture made for truck step bumpers that fits the hole but... It's lens is half shaded so all the light goes toward the license plate. It doesn't serve just right in this vert application. Better than nothing. I think its this one. Measure the hole before ordering...

Unless you just have to have OEM... This material is anodized aluminum channel for keder welt. Its used on boats, awnings, etc... All you need to know is the diameter of the welt on your top, the overall length, and start searching. You might even find it locally. Lowes stocked it once upon a...

You could try bending the rods. I have found most every rod from kick down linkage to the signal wand is high carbon steel, like drill rod. Breaks before bending.

The tough part will be fining a vert top assembly being parted out. Couldn't you just have it welded? You would need to remove the tack strip in it but that might let you hide a scab inside the crack.

A lot of things did change between 65 and 66. The hangers in the original post look just like 67 type, No extra little offset. This may be correct for 66. The rust on the rod pretty much tells how much of that rod was exposed.

You may have that visor pushed too far onto the hanger rod. Visor doesn't cover all of the rod at hanger end.