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put the coyote 5.0 in it :D

Cool :D

well aren't you a breath of fresh air :shock: yeah it will take longer, most things worth doing do, I have about 1000 hours into the build I'm doing, it's not a race, if it was we'd just buy cars that were already done.

Dart SRT would be very cool. Not everyone is into the pro touring type build but I sure am. Old school style with modern efficency and driveability, best of both worlds. I don't have anything against bone stock builds either but I crossed over to the dark side of restomods a long time back. :oops:

But there's 340 Darts all over the place, when have you seen one with a new hemi? More efficeint, no cold start issues, a definite cool factor. Yes it's a pain in the *** to do the install and no doubt expensive but that's what we do in this hobby :sign3:

I did a lot of oil research after my build and couldn't get a comfortable feeling about the zinc content in shell or anything else conventional for that matter so I went with the Brad Penn oil (they also have break in oil). Where I am though it seems like everyone uses the Lucas break in oil...

POR15 makes an engine enamel that's supposed to be good, I'm spraying my nailhead with that this weekend hopefully. You can also brush it on. They also make POR20 high temp exhaust manifold paint, I'm using that as well. Neither of the POR products require primer but all 2K automotive paints do...

That's more like it, I paid $1000 to get my 425 Nailhead heads done last year

I'm not a mechanic but I had that problem, my son who is a mechanic put a screw driver between the leads of the starter (with the key in the on position) and sure enough it started. It was the ignition so he just wired in a push button starter and put it in the ash tray, kinda cool actually.

Machine work tends to be expensive, I would either just hone it and re-ring it or see what I can find in the way of a replacement like the one Daredevil has.

It seems to me that since the Barrett Jackson auction went on TV and got everyone all crazy, prices on collector cars in ANY condition went up a lot and everything associated with restoring them got stupid as well. Engine building, paint and body, chroming, etc., all of it seems to have gotten...

There's only a 90 day warranty? :thumbdow: That's crazy. Now don't shoot me for this but I just bought a crate motor for my daughters Camaro, 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty and I'm sure it cost less than half to boot. Something is wrong with this picture.

Mine was a 1990 but I think they started putting the tuned port motors in a couple years earlier, maybe 1988? My wife has a 2000 Stang GT that runs 14 flat right out of the box. That is a really great little engine, 4.6L, 260hp and has traction lock, you boot it and you're gone, no slip, no...

It may be a bad rep by default since the 340 had such a strong following. For durability/reliability I think the 318 actually has a very good rep. :thumbup:

Not all the Chev 305's were TBI, the Iroc's and GTA Firebirds were Tuned port, that's an injector for every cylinder, rated at the same hp as the Ford 5.0 and could run with them easily. I had one, my buddy had a Mustang 5.0, you couldn't tell the difference. Not a fan of the 307 for sure.

I had a 305 Chev tuned port motor and it ran just like a 5.0 Ford, not a steaming pile at all, very quick for a stocker actually. The early 305's were crap but then just about everything for a while there was, even the 350's were only rated at about 185hp in the mid to late 70's. I don't think...

The 305 Chev motor has the same disrespect for some reason, it's rated about 10hp less than the 350 in the years both were available but is generally frowned upon. As long as you build it right they're all good motors. They've got ricers running in the 7's with the little 4 pots in them.

I have heard to stay away from the synthetics for the first while, too slick and the rings may not seat properly, something along those lines?

On a side note, if you're going to go to all that trouble and expense put in a V8, it will be worth way more if you want to sell it. I've had V6's and while they scoot along pretty good they lack the torque of an 8 and they suck gas just as bad. Just my 2 bits. :headbang:

Rumblefish, do you know what year the Magnum 360's were built?

They're probably the most expensive because they are the most extensive, so no stone is left unturned. If you go to the cheap place odds are they'll keep adding costs along the way, their quote was for the basic buildup, we thought we could re-use this and that, blah blah blah. J&M racing, Jim...

JB Precision built mine. I would guess that the prices you got have totally different amounts of machine work included, not everyone Magnafluxes so it may be included in the high bid but not in the lower ones. Same goes for parts, the low bid is probably a bare bones parts list.

I plan to paint my 70 Duster sublime and the engine Hot Hues Buddha Orange :thumbup: Yeah baby!