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Ray, Its a pleasure working with you. We have fun! We're not here for a long time, so let's have a good time! Remember when you had 9" slicks on the car? Cool "time-specific" changes have led you into the 8's...your study, and hard work have all paid off! Now lets get into the Milan...

Thanks for the compliments...really enjoy driving it. It sounds great [3" stainless exhaust w/"H" pipe. Watson Engineering made it] It shifts great, A & A manual shift valve body 8" converter from Turbo Action, and hooks good with the Dana out back! It really pulls in high gear....this fish...

Have had this Barracuda since 1978. Saved it from distruction! Total rebuild. 440/727/Dana 3.54/Indy heads, intake, 1050. A reasonably fast fish. Fun to drive around.

Great reading these aritcles/conversations/and finds. Keep up the good work guys! History ...got to love it! I race a 65 GT [it is a small block car] and have a 66 GT in the works...it may have an old 354/392 Hemi in it some day! Thank you!

My '67 Fast Back "S" weighs 3370. Fiber Glass Hood, Full interior, Full complement of chrome with original bumper brackets, Wilwood front brake system, factory rear 10" drum, Dana 60. Uni-Body tie-ins, Indy Aluminum Heads & Intake. Headers with full 3" exhaust. Fuel cell, and a mild steel 6...

Wonder if the cam is worn out? Any unusual valve train noises? Oil these days does not support flat tappet cams very well. That is another long story. You do need to purchase a compression gauge. We all need one from time to time. Takes the guess work out of the equasion. Maybe, you can...

I did not know the "D" Dart had GT trim!

The magnium motors DO have a distributor drive gear! Also known as the oil pump drive gear. Because the cam and distributor drive/oil pump drive gear are cut on a helical pattern, a thrust is always present, therefore the bushing in the block will wear. And in some cases the distributor drive...

It is the same as the cam position sensor. But also check the distributor drive bushing/drive gear. [you will have to remove the distributor and the drive gear for a good visual check] I have had them wear out, creating timing issues. Other points of interest, check the coil for "rust" around...

i happened to pick up a V 10 98 dodge truck. Got the whole thing cheap! The truck got hit real hard in the front end. Currently my shop students and I will remove the cab and leave the entire drive train in tack. My goal is to have a running chassis/engine combo for [all electronics as well]...

it accelerates with the front wheels off the ground! it is my first car its a 9 second hot rod

One more to add to your list. BH29H72299658 This is a 1967 "S" Fastback 383, automatic, 3.23 ratio car. As you know the '67's did not come w/power disc brakes or power steering! I do not have the build sheet nor the IBM data card. I can get the numbers off the radiator core support and the...

I have one of the "383-fish" from 67. The above is correct, it was slow/did not handle very well and the disc brakes were "ok" at best. Mine is an automatic car 3.23 gear. A good 340 handed me my lunch on many occasions! But I fought back....Still keeping the car "stock" appearing, all the...

Look forward to seeing the Beauty!!! Is it an "S" car or what??? Big Block/Small Block or /6? In any case...I bet the engine will be out before long knowing you! Congrats!! A couple of "Dream looks" Enjoy the ride...I like mine also...its simply a street car, which ends up at the grocery...

Very nice, does that thing have a Hemi! Neither does mine!!! We could only hope! I've owned mine since 1978!

Looks like glove box hinges. I have a '67 "S" car as well, if you need some pix I may be able to help you. Mine is complete and assembled. send me a pm and I'll set you up w/pix from my personal e-mail account.

You did not mention where the battery is located??? The above suggestions are "right on" Voltage drops and current draw tests! Did you but a battery re-locating kit made from China???? the wire gauge size may be the same, but the current carrying ability is "junk" Good old welding cable is...

You may want to install aluminum "runners" all the way to the front. this will keep "black" marks from getting on your paint job! I added aluminum all the way accross the back, never know when the rear tires will get bigger and closer together! Congrats on the new "box" Rob Eppler

out of the hood...how about a wing on the back???

your engine builder is refering to the intake bolt on the driver's side of the engine. if you draw a line from the cam drive/oil pump drive slot, it should intersect the front intake bolt, very close to the #1 cylinder [first bolt on the intake-drivers side] you both mean the same thing, just...

Why fill the tank?? Just more weight to lug around....If you're like me, fuel on the side of the car really ticks you off! Maybe a suggestion, turn your key on acc or on and watch the fuel gauge, when it is close to 3/4 tank simply fine the nearest shut off price you like and call it quits...