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They're over in the MSD forum.

Mine looks like it.

Mopar NOS 1973-1976 Dart Duster Valiant Scamp A/C Heater Blower Switch 3502685 | eBay PN 3502685 - 3847936 3-speed blower switch for 1973-76 Plymouth Duster - RoadRunner - Satellite - Scamp - Valiant and 1973-76 Dodge Charger - Coronet - Dart - Sport with air conditioning

NOS on Ebay. 1961-71 NOS MoPar Radio Condenser Cuda Fury 300 Dart Charger R/T Road Runner GTX | eBay

Yep, Bill Rolik. Or look for part #2884869 Bill Rolik Enterprises - N.O.S., Reproduction, and Replacement Chrysler Parts

I'm trying something to take @RedFish 's method a step further. Instead of tape, I took a piece of plastic cut from a milk jug and made an insulator. Here you can see the metal grounding tab on the back of the fuel gauge. This is the area on the cluster housing that the gauge grounds. The...

There's another way to disable the voltage limiter in the fuel gauge without cracking it open. FABO member @RedFish and his brother devised this method several years ago, and have performed it several times for themselves and others. I learned of it after I posted the RTE method, and Redfish...

For the rear defogger switch, you might be looking for an auxiliary harness that plugs into a harness that goes behind the kick panel on the way to the back of the car. This is from the assembly manual that covers the 1967-69 cars, so it may be different from your '72.

'68s are electric, but the '69s are reflectors. Apparently there was a loophole that Chrysler discovered and exploited by using reflectors for '69. I don't know about 1970. The loophole was closed no later than 1971, and illuminated side markers were here to stay.

The simplest way to disable it is to disconnect the leads and bolt them together. Insulate the junction very well. This and other threads show how to convert to an aftermarket voltage meter. Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

I don't care if it rains or freezes...

The wiring diagram shows 18 AWG. You can get a copy of the service manual and diagrams free at mymopar.com But ALWAYS heed any advice offered by RedFish.

Swingn', I've read in a thread here on FABO that new Rallye Dash circuit boards and original barrel type connectors have a very snug fit. Maybe a little extra test fitting will be helpful to you. A member on the board named Dennis did a detailed thread of a Rallye cluster rebuild in which he...

I'll second that. The assembly manual is very helpful and shows a lot of things the service manual doesn't. The Faxon watermarks right on the engineering illustrations drive me nuts, but it's a go to book. I just checked. There don't seem to be any reprints for later than 1972 model year.

Treed me while I was in the basement taking pictures! :)

Yes, I'm pretty sure it goes in the middle slot, and just put the IVR on top. That's how it works on B-Bodies. But do yourself a favor. With everything all apart, replace the electro-mechanical limiter with a solid state one. Buy or make your own. You only have to fry your gauges once to...

I have one of those. It's nice and big and color, but it has errors. What you need is in the service manual for your car. Mymopar.com has free copies for download, but unfortunately not for your car. They are available for purchase in several modes, print and digital. You should get one...

It's a later part. My latest dated parts manual is 1975, and they're not up to that number. 4049661 is the highest number, so likely they didn't get there until a year or two later. That part number crosses to a Standard Motor Products HR15, sold as a 20 amp horn relay. Edit - SMP HR151

I remember seeing your post about installing all aftermarket gauges. Yes, connecting all gauges that need switched 12V to the original should be fine. With a complete custom dash, there might be a better option.

I don't think you don't need a voltage limiter for the gauges like your originals. They should run on 12 volts. You'll still want a switched 12 volt source for your volt meter. You should still be able to use the power wire that went to your fuel gauge. Since your ammeter will be gone...

You want to use a switched 12 volt source for a voltage meter, so no, don't use the ammeter wires. You can jump the wire at the input of your dash volt limiter for the source. Depending on your car, that might be at the fuel gauge. If you're leaving the ammeter in the car, you can tie the old...

:rofl: I only went to college after spending a good bit of time down the road from you at Fort Benning learnin' how to kill Commies.

So it's analogous to the wire over my index finger? There's no fusible link in that line. Still, when compared to a OEM cable, it looks a little thin. Could be insulation, but the crimped end looks like there's more wire on the factory cable. There's only the amount of current going...

6" fusible link is pretty standard. I'd consider 12 gauge to be minimum spec for a wire carrying charging current. It'll do the job, but if it's being done with new wire, why not upgrade? Cost is one reason. If a serious race car, weight is another. I use 8 gauge with a 12 gauge fusible link...

Year One is a complete and ready to go harness. The reviews are very good. It's pricey, but they have sales on eligible items around holidays. I'm not sure if harnesses are considered sale eligible. 1973 Dodge and Plymouth A-body Dash harness HU326A

Supposedly late build 1968 model year went to the three prong switch with full changeover in '69. My '68 is is a summer build, but still a one prong.

Instrument Voltage Regulator, aka dash limiter. Along with the ammeter, it can be a source of trouble. While you've got your instrument panel apart consider upgrading to an electronic version. A member is making and selling them on this forum. Also available at: MOPAR Products Here's some...

Glenn, go to this page and go to the A-Body section after Imperial. It has good pictures and descriptions. RTE Gauge Faq - rte

I don't have personal experience with Evans, but a friend does. It was perfect. He dealt directly with the owners, and the price was the best he found. I don't know if it's concours correct, but it looks good and is functional. Their product line is limited, but it seems as if they have...

There's a nice '67 120 mph speedometer with odometer for sale on ebay now. I almost bought it for the odometer parts, but thought it was too nice to part out. You can see it's missing the odometer reset shaft. I clicked it as "watch" and the seller sent me an offer. So he's a motivated...