AFTERMARKET VOLT GAUGE INSTALL

[WAYNE0]

I got my aftermarket gauge. When it comes to the volt gauge can i use the original heavy wires from the original amp gauge ? If not where can i hook up the wires for the aftermarket volt gauge & what to do with the original amp gauge wires ? Thanks

 

[S'cuder]

You want to use a switched 12 volt source for a voltage meter, so no, don't use the ammeter wires. You can jump the wire at the input of your dash volt limiter for the source. Depending on your car, that might be at the fuel gauge.

If you're leaving the ammeter in the car, you can tie the old wires by putting them on the same post of the meter. Better solutions are bolting them together, or cutting the terminals, splicing and soldering them. Insulating the connection with electrical tape, shrink tube, or better yet, both is a solid way to do it.

 

[WAYNE0]

You want to use a switched 12 volt source for a voltage meter, so no, don't use the ammeter wires. You can jump the wire at the input of your dash volt limiter for the source. Depending on your car, that might be at the fuel gauge.

If you're leaving the ammeter in the car, you can tie the old wires by putting them on the same post of the meter. Better solutions are bolting them together, or cutting the terminals, splicing and soldering them. Insulating the connection with electrical tape, shrink tube, or better yet, both is a solid way to do it.

Thank i am installing all new aftermarket gauges. I have a 67 barracuda

 

[S'cuder]

Thank i am installing all new aftermarket gauges. I have a 67 barracuda

I don't think you don't need a voltage limiter for the gauges like your originals. They should run on 12 volts. You'll still want a switched 12 volt source for your volt meter. You should still be able to use the power wire that went to your fuel gauge.
Since your ammeter will be gone, connect and insulate the ammeter wires.

 

[WAYNE0]

I don't think you don't need a voltage limiter for the gauges like your originals. They should run on 12 volts. You'll still want a switched 12 volt source for your volt meter. You should still be able to use the power wire that went to your fuel gauge.
Since your ammeter will be gone, connect and insulate the ammeter wires.

I installing an aftermarket fuel gauge as well. I should be able to hook both volt & fuel gauge power wires to the original fuel gauge power wire correct ?

 

[S'cuder]

I installing an aftermarket fuel gauge as well. I should be able to hook both volt & fuel gauge power wires to the original fuel gauge power wire correct ?

I remember seeing your post about installing all aftermarket gauges. Yes, connecting all gauges that need switched 12V to the original should be fine. With a complete custom dash, there might be a better option.

 

[WAYNE0]

I remember seeing your post about installing all aftermarket gauges. Yes, connecting all gauges that need switched 12V to the original should be fine. With a complete custom dash, there might be a better option.

Then thats what ill do. Thanks for the help.

 

[pt70]

I installing an aftermarket fuel gauge as well. I should be able to hook both volt & fuel gauge power wires to the original fuel gauge power wire correct ?

STOP! You will be putting 14 volts inside the gas tank. Chrysler put a 5 volt limiter in their vehicles for a reason. [No kaboom]

 

[67Dart273]

I remember seeing your post about installing all aftermarket gauges. Yes, connecting all gauges that need switched 12V to the original should be fine. With a complete custom dash, there might be a better option.

I don't understand your question. The power to the gauge VOLTAGE LIMITER REGULATOR is switched 12V from the key, via a wire to the cluster harness connector. The gauges run off the low voltage output of the limiter, not 12-14V So if you are tapping into the switched 12 to the PC board connector, yeh.

 

[RedFish]

There are 2 switched 12 volt wires at the OEM instrument panel connector up until around 1972. One wire is blue with white tracer. It supplys 12 volts to a gauge voltage limiter or regulator but also branches at the ignition switch. That other branch goes through the bulkhead connector to supply 12 volts to charging system and everything else under to hood that requires 12 volts. Look at the ign' switch connector to find 2 of blue w/ white in the same female terminal.
Now back to the inst' panel connector. The 2nd switched 12-volt wire supplys 12 volts to the brake warning lamp. If my memory serves, this wire has a black casing. I would need to refer to a FSM to know if this wire is fused or not but I know for sure the blue w/ white tracer is not fused. I would consider the black wire when powering a volts meter even if a inline fuse is req'd.
There are a few things to not be so fond of in the 67 harnesses. For example... since the horn relay is mounted right at the horn(s) on the core support, they jumped from closest 12 volts source (your alternator) directly across midair over to said relay.
The horn relay was relocated, and other oddities were sorted/improved over time but for 67, even the reverse lamps were not fused.
An owner could back over something left in the driveway (thank God there wasn't a child on that tricycle) blow a fusible link that kills entire car and need a ride or walk to work. Good luck with yours