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I didn't know that. Good info! Good idea! I'm off to the "wanted" sub-forum.

Are they all made by the same company? Or maybe a better question is; are there any cheapies to stay away from?

My car hasn't had the speedo connected since it was a 198 slant. I now have 4.33 gears in a 9" Ford rear, in my 360/727 74 Dart Sport. I'd like to get the speedo correct. M/T ET Street 275/60R15's will be ordered before my Summit 10% discount code expires 12-31. (Thanks again, GTXJohn!) The...

It was actually about 180 miles. I picked up my wife at the Philly airport. I live at the Jersey shore. Anyone familiar will know what that means. It means I got caught in traffic going to Philly. Even though it's Monday, apparently it was a holiday weekend (Juneteenth), and everybody was...

I put it together as shown in post #8. It has .006" backlash. The gears are face hobbed, which my research showed that the lash should be on the tight side. I just put 11 miles on it. It's completely quiet. I'm going to take it on a 200 mile trip on Monday, then drain the dino, and fill...

Here's with pinion and carrier preloaded, torqued to spec.

Whatever compound comes with a Ratech kit. Yes, I'm putting drag on the ring gear while I turn the pinion.

Hopefully better pics. I used less compound and the camera flash

Yes, apparently they are. My book calls them "face hobbed", and as you say, that's the same as "two cut". I've only used the "five cut" (or face milled) previously. Looking into this... Thanks

This is an 8.8 Ford (in my F150), but the gears don't know that. (ssshhh!) I have limited experience setting up gears, but I've never seen a pattern that encompasses the entire tooth, drive and coast. And I don't see any pictures like these online. I used Ford Motorsport gears (going from...

EDIT: I will start a different thread. I shouldn't hijack this one. "Nevermind" :)

Lotta money, but I'd like to try a Gear Vendors overdrive sometime. EDIT: Whoops, don't know if you have an auto or stick.

This got me thinking. Somewhere in the past, I remember something about root diameters being different for fine threads and coarse. So I ran a die down the Dr. Diff bolt (linked to in post #13), which was 7/16-20 as received. I figured the worst that could happen is that the threads would be...

I appreciate all of the ideas. Seems there are lots of ways to go. I just ordered this: Mopar Rearend Vent Bolt I'll carefully add some weld to it, get it turned to size on a lathe, and then run a die on it to 14 t.p.i. :thankyou: Edit: Thinking further, maybe it can't be chucked in a...

I'm probably going to make something, as 12many and Dana67Dart suggest. The problem is, at least from my research, is that all the bolts available, that were used in production are 20 tpi, and I need 14. I'm gonna look more. I can't understand why someone would change the thread in the...

Does anyone know of a vent bolt that will hold the brass vee and is 7/16-14 thread? I have a 9" Ford in my Duster and there is a solid bolt holding the vee on. So, of course, the axle is not vented. I haven't driven it enough for it to leak, but I want to "stay ahead of the curve"...

Ah, you refreshed my memory. (Acute Old Fartitus) If I remove the steering column lock, it doesn't matter what position the remaining shift linkage is in. And actually, as long as that column sleeve doesn't rotate to the reverse position, it won't lock.

My 74 Dart Sport began life with a 198 and a column 3 spd manual. It now has a 360, 727. I removed the shift lever, and I don't care if the column sleeve and the linkage down on the engine side of the firewall stay there. But, how do I remove the "feature" that locks the column when the...

I'm not a very good technical writer, but I'll try to convey what I did. Maybe it'll help someone when they search. One problem is that I don't know what the shaft is from. I took the entire driveline from a D150 Pro Street truck. I ended up using a combination of 2 Moog 429's and a 7260...

Guy just called from R Way. They're "kinda closed, don't do driveshafts anymore". But he gave me the number of a place in the same area as him, (hour away) that I'll try when I get time; hopefully next week.

Well, two voicemails and an email, no response (from R-Way). Back to the drawing board.

I may have confused some. The link above to Action Machine Inc. is just for the measurement chart, not where I'm taking the driveshaft. That's hopefully going to be R-Way Tooling I called today before I went to see if they're open, as I'm an hour away. After getting a voicemail a few times...

Thanks for that, Dana67Dart, I'm on my more-familiar laptop now. No, I don't need a combo, but thanks. It appears to be an inside clip 7260, with caps measuring 1.078, but the width number is off. I found a chart that describes what I mean much better than I did. What they call "width" is...

I’ve installed a 360, 727 and 9 inch Ford in my Duster. They all came out of an 81 Pro Street D150. The driveshaft that was in the truck is too long. While it’s getting shortened, I’m going to replace the u joints. From research, they appear to be 7260’s. The cap diameter is 1.078, as it should...

I haven’t been under there for a while to see that flat. I would have been asking if it is parallel! Thanks

Doesn't appear to be. a727 transmission diagram I'll have to quick pull the tail plug and install the yoke to get a surface, I guess. It has fluid in it.

I'm thinking of using the trans pan (727) as a reference while setting the pinion angle. Anyone know if the pan is parallel to the output shaft/crankshaft?

How could you set the pinion angle with the eng/trans not in the car? The pinion angle is relative to the crankshaft/trans output shaft plane.

Good photo!