Gear Pattern Opinions Please

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SpeedThrills

SpeedThrills

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This is an 8.8 Ford (in my F150), but the gears don't know that. (ssshhh!)
I have limited experience setting up gears, but I've never seen a pattern that encompasses the entire tooth, drive and coast. And I don't see any pictures like these online.
I used Ford Motorsport gears (going from 2.73 open, to 3.31's w/ a Traction Lok. I used the original pinion shim, and the original left side carrier shim. There's about .008 back lash, the spec is .008 to .012.
1686853908798.png


1686853957007.png
 
Yes, apparently they are. My book calls them "face hobbed", and as you say, that's the same as "two cut". I've only used the "five cut" (or face milled) previously.
Looking into this...
Thanks
 
It's hard to discern anything from that pattern. What kind of marking compound are you using? Are you applying drag to the carrier as you spin the yoke?
 
mopowers said:
It's hard to discern anything from that pattern. What kind of marking compound are you using? Are you applying drag to the carrier as you spin the yoke?
Click to expand...
Whatever compound comes with a Ratech kit.
Yes, I'm putting drag on the ring gear while I turn the pinion.
 
That is showing you your pinion is in too deep.

New bearings and back that pinion out a few thousands.

Then re shim your carrier bearings to give you the .008 - .012 ths backlash.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
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I agree with George.
It would be "perfect" as is except
it allows no room for time, temperature, or loading.
If it was a slanty summer cruiser, with an auto trans, I would run it. ... because that would be a low-load, low-temp, 50% time sort of situation.
 
SpeedThrills said:
This is an 8.8 Ford (in my F150), but the gears don't know that. (ssshhh!)
I have limited experience setting up gears, but I've never seen a pattern that encompasses the entire tooth, drive and coast. And I don't see any pictures like these online.
I used Ford Motorsport gears (going from 2.73 open, to 3.31's w/ a Traction Lok. I used the original pinion shim, and the original left side carrier shim. There's about .008 back lash, the spec is .008 to .012.
View attachment 1716102875

View attachment 1716102876
Click to expand...
your gear pattern is perfect ,, leave it alone ,, every 8.8 i've ever done using Ford factory gears rolls the same type pattern when set up correctly. as long as your pinion bearing preload is correct as well as your carrier bearing preload you are good to go. total width of both carrier bearing shims averages 0.540 + /- 0.010 thou depending on the housing. keep backlash to the minimum .008 as it will open up as the bearings wear in ,, you can see pics of my 8.8 patterns and other differentials on the Kijiji site here in Canada.
 
Might help visibility if you clean/dry the teeth you want to mark, brush the marking compound on then give it time to dry out a bit. Kind of looks like the teeth are already dry but the marking compound still looks wet, won't give as smooth of a pattern that way.
 
You will find out when you drive it if it howls or runs silent.

Silent is good, Howling is no good.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
I put it together as shown in post #8. It has .006" backlash. The gears are face hobbed, which my research showed that the lash should be on the tight side.

I just put 11 miles on it. It's completely quiet.

I'm going to take it on a 200 mile trip on Monday, then drain the dino, and fill it with synthetic. I added friction modifier (added Traction Lok) to the dino, the syn says it has it in it.

Thanks for all of the input and suggestions. I always learn when I post on here.
:thankyou:
 
It was actually about 180 miles. I picked up my wife at the Philly airport. I live at the Jersey shore. Anyone familiar will know what that means. It means I got caught in traffic going to Philly. Even though it's Monday, apparently it was a holiday weekend (Juneteenth), and everybody was going home TODAY instead of yesterday! UGH. So about half was reeeeally slow going, and the other half was idiots mixed in the 60-65 mph "race".
Anyway, the gears are fine. I changed the oil when I got back. It was nice and clean.
I have to admit to patting myself on the back. I learned about installing gears from an old friend that I helped do it many times several years ago. I've done it 3 times myself, as he passed away because of a fool who caused an accident that ran him off the road. First was on my 5.0 Mustang that has run 11.40's, dead hooking; second was my 360 Duster with a 9" that I put 4.33's in (Towing it to Atco tomorrow night after building it since 2008, about 160 miles round trip, 4500 lbs. with trailer), and now my '95 F150 8.8. It was hard to tell if the Mustang and Duster were quiet because of the solid and poly bushings involved. But the F150 has stock suspension, and runs very quietly. My confidence is building!
The guys on "Roadkill" say, "just do it and have fun". Having a big budget and a support vehicle makes that easy for them to say. But I admit, I did take their advice, to a degree. But can you imagine being at a major airport (or anywhere to or from) with a rear gear screaming?
If anybody out there is at Atco tomorrow, say hi!
 
My Tundra has same type of gears. I have a spare chuck I have to set up as my current rear is howling. I've done a couple of Mopar rears but this style once without success :BangHead: Good info for me. I'll give it another go! Thanks
 
SpeedThrills said:
This is an 8.8 Ford (in my F150), but the gears don't know that. (ssshhh!)
I have limited experience setting up gears, but I've never seen a pattern that encompasses the entire tooth, drive and coast. And I don't see any pictures like these online.
I used Ford Motorsport gears (going from 2.73 open, to 3.31's w/ a Traction Lok. I used the original pinion shim, and the original left side carrier shim. There's about .008 back lash, the spec is .008 to .012.
View attachment 1716102875

View attachment 1716102876
Click to expand...
I would run that. Especially if you have the original depth shim and got that pattern.
 
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