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Thank you both. I figured someone must have it.

Is the item in this picture that's entitled "ring", available new somewhere?

Sounds likely. Her car has anti lock brakes.

That’s probably where I heard it. I have the FSM for my wife’s Accord. I wonder why it’s different?

Also, I wouldn’t use anything to give you more leverage. You’ll have less feel for what you’re doing.

Make sure the line fitting wrench is of good quality. Years ago, I had a Craftsman set but when I had a tough one, somebody told me to get Snap On. Worked like a dream. I’m not promoting Snapon, my story is from many years ago. My point is, make sure you have a wrench that fits very well.

In the 70s, when I learned how to do this stuff, I was taught to work from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder, to the closest. Lately, I’ve seen it said that you should do the closest wheel first. Did something change, or are they talking about newer cars? Or does it just not really...

If the car sometimes has slicks on it, you may want more pressure to the rear at the track. I had factory front discs on the front of a Challenger years ago. It had 11" rear drums, not the 10" that factory disc/drum cars had. It would lock the rears with street tires, but stopped great with...

Brake line shield. It's right where the tire kicks stuff up.

I only thought of this now, at age 61, lol. But I'm only replacing a couple sections that had it originally. My car now has subframe connectors and I ran the front to rear line partially in the front wheel well. I shielded that with a heavy sheetmetal guard. It looks cool, and hopefully will...

What is its purpose? I'm guessing it's for protection against rub-through holes caused by vibraton where the line touches the surface it's running next to? I got to thinking about this as I'm replacing some rusted brake lines with parts store line, and it of course, has no wire coiled around it.

I'm not going to use any sealer at first. I'll use pipe dope sparingly, if needed. (Only on the pipe threads, I knew that part.) :thankyou:

Roger that!

Okay, no teflon. So do the pipe threads on the solenoid and the adjustable proportioning valve need a sealant? I installed line locks on a few cars years ago, but I got CRS now. :(

I'm installing the line lock on my Duster project. Is teflon tape necessary on the pipe threads involved? Or is it even okay? I.E. Will brake fluid attack it?

I ended up putting the pushrod in a vice, and whacking the MC. Fancy new Dr Diff jobby on there now. Thanks for the help. :thumbsup:

Okay. Great. The new one came with that rubber gizmo. I thought it might be a retainer. I just did one of these about 35 years ago. :rolleyes: :thankyou:

How do you get the pushrod out of a 74 Dart Sport manual drum master cylinder? I kinda remember puttng the pushrod in a vice and hitting the MC with a hammer. I just tried this, but I don't want to hit it too hard and break something. Been a long time. I'm installing a Dr Diff MC. It has no...

Doc, I'm ordering the master cyl and pro valve right now. :thumbsup:

Yes, I've done the research. I just wanted to make sure that photo was captioned wrong, it would've thrown me off if it wasn't. And yes, 72bluNblu has helped me a lot on some PM's. I now have 73-up disc spindles for my 74 with 10"drums. I'm saving for a Willwood 140-15465, to which I'll add...

In this article: Spindle Comparison Near the top of the article it says that the "B" (F,M.J, etc.) spindle is about 3/8" taller than the "A" spindle. Then, in the 3 photos directly below, it says the "B" spindle is on the left in each one. In the first photo, that seems to be correct...

Looking on Rockauto, it seems that 10" drums for a Satellite or other BBP car are no longer available. Of course, I don't know if one would work on an A body anyway. Classic shows a 10" front drum for 73-76. SBP. Back to square one.

Well, now I’m really confused, but it’s a good confusion! I’ve never had the front wheels off of this car. I have the rear out because I’m putting a 9 inch Ford in it. The original rear is a 7 1/4. It had 9 inch brakes. I figured the front brakes had to be 9 inch. Well with all of this...

I get it. I didn't want to re-post in General Mopar Discussions, I understand it's not right. My apologies. However, I got many more views and several new replies in half the time.

I thought the drums would be lighter. Guess it depends on the drum. On the Road Runner I mentioned, we ordered two different numbers, I think to check weight. One was 10# and one was #19. We gambled and went with the lighter one. I'm guessing we probably didn't want to cut it. lol This was...

Oh, okay. I thought all of the 73 up cars were front disc. If I came up with a 73 up disc set up, I figure original OEM would be pricey. I don't need original, this car is far from it. lol Maybe they're lighter than factory type discs? I don't know how to find the weights. But mostly, I...

Scarebird only shows 72 and earlier. Then the right parts (whatever they would be) have to sourced, I guess. Their site doesn't get specific. All the odds and ends needed make it even more expensive. Thanks for the link to BBD. I never thought of them. That page explains a lot of the things...

Thanks, Dr Reamer. I understand what you're saying. I can certainly appreciate good help from a vendor. I'm up in the air on this one. I'm going from Wilwood and the related parts (most expensive, I think), and redrilling my 9" drums for my Prostars 4 1/2 BBP and using an adjustable...

My post is dying a slow, painful death. lol Front Disc Brake Conversion Confusion I'm copying the post here to get some more views; I could use some help!

I'm definitely leaning towards the PST kit. Anyone have experience with it?