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Kinda what RRR was hinting at. Poor brake linings or hard spots in the drum faces also will not stop worth a damn. This kinda of issue is difficult to diagnose because it takes years of experience and seat of the pants knowledge that cannot be gifted over or thru a keyboard.

Just use a 96 Dakota with front dish and rear drums. Possibly the same Up too 2003 but I am not sure. Syleng1

No brakes and you have no idea how to fix it? Then NO. Hire a wrecker and prevent innocent people or yourself from possibly being hurt by your 3500 lb car. Unless you’re leaving something out. If you can fix the fronts then fix all 4 corners.

Also the hole can become oblonged from a few million twists. The roll pin when driven in has a tension but it can only go so far. A dab of super glue on either end can help. Either that or replace the handle.

Back when the drums and rotors turned like ladies. Now try turning the new stuff. Vibration chatter marks everywhere. Complete garbage.

Think of the guys who used to replace linings on the car and ground them to fit. Asbestos - it’s what’s for breakfast.

Only thing I would add is: A) any cracks in the face of the lining material? B) Pull back the wheel cylinder outer seals and look for corrosion or rust. C) if the linings look crack free or close - a light scuff with 150grit sand paper to take the shine off the faces and get another 10k miles...

What are you working on? Year make and model. What brake system do you have? Disks, drums and what size Power booster or manual? I know you said “Duster” but that could be a fwd car. Syleng1

Both my cars are 74 disk/ 2-1/2”x10” drums. 66 Barracuda 273/auto 3.23 and 72 Demon 340/4 speed 3.91 Both stop easy and effortlessly with manual masters.

Have you verified the e brake cable is not hanging up? All listed above also are good points. Brakes can be a tough item to diagnose with a single picture and not in person. If you are having troubles is anyone local you can ask who can actually see the work and knows brakes verify what is...

Wildwood. Get ahold of them. I’m sure they have a solution for you. Syleng1

Go to each wheel and have some one step on pedal and one by one open that particular bleeder screw. If the pedal releases faster then you know what corner it is an issue. Do only one wheel per pedal press. Checking fluid level along the way so you don’t run out of brake fluid. If that does not...

What I find with them is they are full of heat cracks. Especially when the hub is aluminum and the drum is steel. The corrosion between the two warps drums and the only way to get them off is hammer like a mother with a BFH.

Here is the reason you donot turn drums anylonger. Chinese drums do not turn and are loaded with hot spots due to poor quality metal used. Auto part stores no longer invest in the machines to do this unless they already have them from 20 years ago. Most just buy new drums and throw them away...

That’s a master for disk drum combo.

The brake line is 3/16” The nut …. I’m not sure.

Congrats and welcome aboard. Rule #1: post pictures of your car. The best way to share. A lot of us enjoys seeing your new ride.

Switch out to 10”ebrake cables.

Rusty is correct. Just switch to manual brakes - cost effective and simple solution. If you need power brakes that bad. Change your cam back or buy a vac pump.

And to answer the original question. “Yes” you can drill your original drums but my suggestion is to drill them in between the factory holes and not oblong the originals. Knock your current studs out of the axle and center it and mark holes and drill. My 72 Demon has Mosier axles at the 5x...

When I worked for a dealer 80’s into the 90’s rotors were big bucks. So we turned them. Now they are way cheaper so we just replace. Sadly almost all the rotors in the $45-$125 range are junk including Napa rotors. They turn black and pop leaving rust divots and are complete garbage after 2...

Have you ever had this happen? You don’t need a new cylinder unless the old one is junk. Sometimes the shoes over extend and the wheel cylinder is fine- pistons in bore- most times however the rubber piston cup under the seal pops out of the bore and you simply take the shoes apart, reinsert the...

Crack the bleeder and smack the shoes back together. You did not harm anything- it will get a bit messy but worst case the pistons in the wheel cylinders popped out of the bore.

If you have time- hit Rock Auto.

Mazda- would that not be in metric sized?

I’m not sure- I’ve seen them in person but don’t know if that’s a 2 bolt or 4 bolt set up. I was amazed by how small the diameter was. Maybe off a different brand car and converted. Driver was not around at the show to ask.

I believe there is a smaller diameter booster as well. Like 5” but a bit longer. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff out there even boosters that run off your power steering pump and a lot smaller. No vacuum needed.

NEXT!

FYI- new ones as mentioned sometimes have issues. Debris’s, leakage, cross threaded fittings. If your bolts up - Great. Then try to bleed the brakes and keep an eye on it when you do each wheel. If it leaks, then it’s a bad one. If not it will self bleed as you push fluid thru the system. Good...

YIKES! Wow! I’ve never seen one go like that- typically it’s a ruptured diaphragm or broken spring or a rubber diaphragm damaged from brake fluid. Sadly I am old enough to have HAD to rebuild them when I worked for a dealer. Sad- quality has gone from worse to crap.