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Maybe jets are clogged up in the carb? Stuck needles in float bowls?

Basically if you start an engine it should be run up to temp and driven.

You should get some fresh oil in it and run it till its good and hot. Maybe run it and change it again.

Fuel does not turn the oil milky like that. That is water either coolant leak or condensation. Is the coolant full still?

If your making 600 plus horse power it takes double the air flow of a stock 340 to do it?

Also, my manifold/Holley took a tumble off of my work bench when the whole assembly was off the engine and now fuel is leaking from that large screw on the top front of the Holley. It's a 570 cfm Avenger if anyone might know why it's doing that. The big screw is where you set your float level...

Welding to the broken off bolts is definitely the best way to go. I start by building a bump on the end of the broken bolt and then weld a nut to that.

When the lifter fails and takes out the cam you almost always get a misfire. The cop cars would usually fail lifters on cylinder 5 or 7. Mainly cylinder 5.

Hot idle oil pressure of 20-25 is where mine runs on a mech gauge before and after a rebuild.

If you add a bigger alternator make sure the wiring is upgraded to handle it. You can't put 160 amps through the factory bulkhead and amp meter. The factory wire on my dart is only 10 gauge.

The 5w or 10w number for oil only has to do with how the oil flows cold. 40 oil is the same at operating temp regardless of the w number. My diesel has the same hot oil pressure with 5w40 as it does with 15w40.

Is the motor stuck? Did you say it won't turn?

I want to say a magnum engine was around 180 psi of compression stock. Many current engines run 200 psi or more. Small block chevy vortec seen them at 205 psi stock.

Does it seem any different than this engine?

Is that just valve over lap causing reversion in the intake? Not a stock cam. Maybe normal for the cam you have?

If you do a compression test you could get and idea about what direction to go. If you have dished pistons or pistons down in the bore you will see a low cranking pressure. If you only have 120 pounds of compression you will want to get that up. But if you have 165 or more you won't want to go...

It maybe a case of the oil thinning out from use and being slightly diluted from water and fuel. It could be time for an oil change. How many miles and start ups warm ups are on the oil? My 340 always had at least 20psi at hot idle oil pressure. I was using 5w40 rottella t6 or mobil 1 20w50.

Those holes are blocked so the coolant circulates through the block, through the heads and out the intake. If they were open the coolant would go in the front of the block and be pushed right out the thermostat with out cooling much.

Put in a bolt and turn it around and see if they all line up that's the only way I know of to do it.

The front holes that are blocked are there as part of the casting process and to clean the casting sand out. If those holes were open the water pump would push coolant in the front and right out the top to the Tstat with out circulating through the block and heads.

Sorry, really nice just the same:)

That 340 runs really good nice wide torque curve.

I ordered a set of heads today p5153849. I'm pretty sure these are reboxed performer RPM heads. That should be enough to start with and then they can always be ported later. I will probably take them apart and check all the clearances, clean up the ports if needed and change the springs.

I may end up swapping to a manual trans at some point. For now I'm going to stick with the 727. I was thinking of putting the engine together with my stock iron heads just to have it running sooner. I just don't want to choke it out. The stock heads have 42k miles so they could be cleaned up and...

Budget is limited of course. I'm doing a 4" stroke 340 forged bottom end. 16cc dished pistons at zero deck should be 10.5 to 1 comp. Trying to figure out how much head flow I need to reach the full potential of the engine. Not a race engine just a fast street car good torque broad power band...

What do small valve J heads flow no port work?

I'm building a 340 stroker motor for my Dart sport. What is the relation ship between head flow and power output? Is there a simple formula to figure out how much flow you need to produce the power you want? If I use my small valve stock J heads what is the most power I can expect? E brock rpm...

I'm have not picked a cam yet but this is going a daily driver street car. It is not a max power effort. Looking for a wide power band with good torque still able to rev to 5800 or so.

Anybody used the power pack pistons in any of their builds. Would you recommend them for my 340 based 4" stroke motor?

I've been cleaning and prepping the block. Any ideas on cleaning the valley side water jackets?