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One of the shops I was lead at had a hanging air hose let go during the night, and since it was hanging between two cars on lifts it beat the crap outta both cars doors. (and I mean down to bare steel) Looked like they both got shot with a giant shotgun. Fuses are fine, and good safety...

I had thermostat controlled electric cooling, but I was getting ready to add AC so I pulled it all and went with a more capable radiator and clutched 7 blade steel fan. Originally these cars had a basic circuit breaker built into the headlight switch, but they are a bi metal type and works...

Nope, I was warned just like you have been. :)

There is a distributor rotor for the factory style Mopar distributor that can help with wear and corrosion of the rotor tip and cap terminals. Napa part number MO3000 rotor is .030 longer at the tip. The shorter spark jump distance wears the parts less. You REALLY need to make sure your cap is...

I also made my own, but have a relay for each filament. (4 relays) If one relay feeds both low beams and one feeds both hi beams, then the loss of one relay takes out both lights. Didn’t like that idea much. Also all headlights are now 10 ga. wire including the grounds.

I have a small 110 heater I got for about 20 bucks at Walmart that I keep in the car. When it’s real cold/frozen out I plug it in and set it on the passenger side floor to warm up the interior before I go out to leave. Works great to not have to get in a freezing *** car and wait for the heater...

No

Ask /6 dan about the signal switch. He had a NOS source and may still.

I think if I was intent on not buying a new switch I would solder wire to what’s left of the terminals and ditch the connector all together.

Good call, as this insures you will never need it. :D

I can show an even better HEI setup. This is the parts needed to put together an 8 pin weatherpac system. The 8 pin module and matching coil are both moisture sealed, and have all the same benefits of the four pin, plus. No exposed blade type connectors, 60k output easily capable of a 50 thou...

6.800 and what there are for reviews is pretty good. Seems like for that price it’s worth the try.

Just a FYI I haven’t seen mentioned is the nuts on the back of the cluster can and do loose their contact due to age and basically tarnishing. I have fixed a lot of gauge failures just by loosening and re tightening the nuts.

Don’t forget to check your connections at the dimmer switch.

Actually that I don’t know for sure, but it sounds like it. That would be a body ground. Are you saying everything works now except the front signals? If so, now check the connectors for those with a test light all the way back to and including the firewall junction block (bulk head connector)...

It is possible obviously that it could be the signal switch itself since multiple light functions run through it. The problem is that with aftermarket parts you could easily have worse or other problems unless you get OE parts. Personally I would eliminate every other possibility first. Ground...

Two things that might help. 1. The electronic flasher (like for led’s) flash at the same speed no matter what the load is. They don’t even slow at idle like the factory style. 2. When I ran a separate ground wire from the sockets themselves to the body everything straightened up. Sometimes the...

Make sure you need a ballast resister, then look into the mention of Ign 1 and Ign 2. When I was building HEI kits we didn’t use a ballast and Ign1 and Ign 2 needed to be tied together so it had power at the coil in both start and run positions of the key.

One day I went to start the car and it cranked really slow. I had noticed one day about the same time my stereo was making a hissing noise even with it turned off. Turns out after using a test light between the battery positive and the cable and disconnecting things, that the memory power for...

Ignition switch can do this, as can a failing connection at the amp meter.

Recharging the battery after it started would add to any of the above.

You are right about them working like a compression union, but I couldn’t help myself. I did use the crimp function to get the cable crushed good before the solder. Didn’t have any problem with the solder getting on the threads. I was watching that pretty closely, and stopped when I saw the...

I have had these ugly temporary battery terminals forever and finally decided to do something about it. Haven’t had any problems with them, just ugly. The ground cable was red but wrapped with black tape, so I made a new one with #2 rubber coated cable. The cables are now silver soldered into...

Any of you ever used one of these units? These are most often used in RV’s for the 125 volt to 12 volt converter output and battery charging systems. Also, some use them for large sound systems and hydraulics when at shows. These things kick butt. Up to 80 amp output, and has battery charging...

The case is its ground and it ties into your instrument light circuit. It should light with parking lights and headlights.

I was wondering if anyone was going to mention the connector and it’s corresponding wire. :)

Ya know, if we quote a person’s message they get a notification that they’re post has a response. Dies when the headlights are turned on usually means the charging system isn’t working.

That could actually be any of a few things. Battery connection Ign switch Solenoid Starter Wiring connectors Those would be the most likely.

Actually I think the crank contacts in the ignition switch is worn out. Turn on the key and short across those two contacts. Car should start and run.

Turn the key on and jump across these two.