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I see that you finally repaired your crystal ball!!!:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::poke:

RainX

By "pusher" fans I assume that they're mounted in front of the radiator? I mounted my fans on studs so I could remove if necessary. Also the fans will lose efficiency very quickly the further they are from the radiator fins. Ideally they should be mounted dead up against the radiator, also...

You forgot the "HOT CHICK" in the passenger's seat!!:rofl::poke::steering::steering::steering:

What about pickled pigs feet?????

I had two fans mounted on my hot rod radiator. One set to turn on at 180 and the other turned on at 195 (if it ever got that hot) with separate relays and adjustable reostats. With two fans there's always a back up if one fails.

Yep!!

I mounted mine inside the upper radiator hose on the radiator inlet. The hose will still seal because the copper line is so thin.

It wouldn't make any difference at higher speeds. His problem is not in town.....his problem is on the highway.

The more holes that you plug between the radiator support and the engine compartment the more you'll get through the radiator at higher speeds!! If you don't have a radiator support to hood seal it doesn't help at all. There are other places that the air can escape through the radiator...

When you're on the highway, sometimes the fans can actually interfere with air coming through the radiator. Have you closed off all the paths that air can get around the radiator when at high speeds. Too much advance can cause the engine to overheat at higher RPMs. Do you have a temp gun...

1970 - Sankyo Electric entered into a technical alliance with Mitchell Corporation, and began producing compressors for passenger cars in 1970, which marked an entrance into the automotive market. With this new industry came a new corporate identity – Sanden. Since the opening the first...

Yes, all of the above depending on date of manufacture.

I enlarge every single one also.............and they were all satisfied!!!:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

Hot Wet Hole!!!

One more thing that I forgot about........I also wired the two fans to both come on when the AC compressor comes on. So the AC bypasses the variable temp relays.

When I used two fans I had two variable temp relays and had them set to come on at 185 and 195 degrees. First fan came on a 185 and if the temp got to 195 the second fan would come on. If temp dropped below 195 the second fan would turn off. Don't know if this helps but it did work good.

I had two fans on my car, each had a variable start temperature. I had one set to come on at 180 and the other set to come on at 190. If the temp dropped below 190 one would automatically shut off, it the temp dropped below 180 both would be off. Worked pretty nice!!

Two things----- First have you checked the temp of the inlet and outlet on the radiator, there should be a 20 degree drop. If not then you don't have enough airflow (fans) or a restriction. I bought an inexpensive laser temp gun to check my car. Second-----does it overheat sitting at a light...

The manufacturers aren't STUPID!!! They know that making the gauges read perfect all the time enhances the driving experience so that you always give the car high praise and this ....................................drives sales "up"!!! IT'S ALL ABOUT THE MONEY.

I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to temporarily connect a ground line from the sensor to the battery negative using a wire with alligator clips. This way you can drive around to see if it makes a difference or get it up to a stable temperature in the driveway and connect the wire to battery...

RRR says "keep it simple"!!!!!

If your memory is "short" it's not "Good" ????:poke:

If you back off on the timing and your heating problems goes away then you have an idea on what could be causing the problem. You can always move the timing back, right?? One step at a time.

In the pic it looks like there a space under the fiberglass mounting surface. If there is a space could you simply use a machine screw with a locking (fiber nut) nut. I won't come loose and it will be removable??Treblig

Is the hole in the fiberglass stripped or the hole in the metal bracket??

That's a good idea as long as his radiator tubes are in good shape??? Treblig

Before you do anything else make sure that you've sealed all any and all areas between the radiator support and the hood. At low speeds the engine heat can go over the radiator support and through any holes in the support and get recycled through the radiator. This alone can cause your temps...

Yes, the trans cooler can be almost anywhere except behind the radiator, frame rail, etc. Treblig

My bad!! I didn't notice that the trans cooler was already in front of the radiator. But yes, the condenser should be as close as possible to the radiator to help airflow (the closer the better)!! treblig