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I had one mounted on my shop wall and it still managed to shock the hell out me!!!!

Inside the cab is ideal except for the RF issue???

Don't remember who it was but the post/thread got disappeared. Still trying to figure out why??

I know that Spectre, Speedway and Mr. gasket make them but not sure who makes one specifically for a Mopar with headers? All it is is a bend piece of sheet metal with holes drilled in it.

I think the wrap is great for the strip because the engine doesn't run for a long time. For the street (driving for extended periods of time) I prefer the shield. I'm not saying that the wrap doesn't work or isn't any good, I'm just giving my personal opionion.

The only problem with the wrap is that it holds heat in (engine heat). A metal shield allows for air flow while reflecting exhaust heat.

You could safety wire the shield to the header tube unless you want something more fancy???

A heat shield might work better???

I always wondered if those things actually worked?? It could probably charge 1000 cell phones!!

If it's the same type of linerless tape I use, just stretch it to its' max and then wrap it tight while stretching. When this is done correctly you won't be able to remove it without a razor blade. If yours will not stretch then I can't help???

The auto parts store should have the generic old school light sockets. I buy them to remove the wire and button to reuse.

Most auto parts sell the old school bulb sockets that have the buttons with wires attached. The button with wire can be removed but I'm not sure what "cuda guy" is asking?

Do you mean the small button at the end of the wire inside the socket??? PICS??

Here's the liner less tape I buy, sounds like the silicone tape but it's rubber: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065HM0FK/?tag=fabo03-20

Is that stuff the same as the stuff I use for wiring....linerless tape (Home depot). It has no adhesive but it adheres to itself really, really good. When you remove it it doesn't leave that sticky electrical tape glue behind. I hate electrical tape, especially when you to remove it to do...

That's what I figured...but couldn't pass up the opportunity to poke at you!!:poke::thumbsup:

I think, I think you you need two put down, dowwn the bottttttle???:poke::rofl::rofl::realcrazy::thumbsup:

Summit automotive wire is pretty tough. I think it was Painless performance wire, comes in 8 colors.

Did you read post 30??

There you go/\ /\ /\ /\ /\....or order a piece of teflon sheet (small piece) and make your own, teflon should last forever.

FLEX SEAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Now that you said that it made me remember!!! I clamped some vice grips on the tang. Put them on there pretty tight, it gave me a good solid place to pry on with a heavy duty screwdriver or small pry bar. Once you lift it up a little you can easily get a screwdriver under the ring.

Removing the ring is not that hard, replacing it and getting it in the same spot is a little harder. It does need to be in the same spot. I thought that the spring had tremendous pressure but once I removed it it wasn't that bad. Just wear a glove when it's getting close to popping and hold...

Might be easier with an awl. A screwdriver will work if it's slim enough but the slender screwdrivers and not very strong?? Usually takes two screwdrivers in tandem. Be prepared for it to "fly"!!

I can't answer your question but I must commend you on your videos and the way you describe the problem. I wish that everyone here could post such descriptive explanations of what they're trying to describe. I'm sure someone will have a good answer for you!!:thumbsup::steering:

I've never seen a "Right" and a "Left" horn relay???:poke::rofl:

I sprayed clear spray paint on all the lock washer connections to frame to avoid rust and corrosion.

Take the alternator to o'riellys or auto zone and have it checked for free. Then go from there.....

I do the same!!:thumbsup:

nice shield!! If you swapped out for the newer, smaller starter you'd have even more airflow.