Search results for query: *

This is an old thread but I’m the OP. I ended up pulling the engine and pulling the pan to modify. Only thing I would recommend. Now my header and pan are happy. Tons of clearance. Drivers side header stays in the car While you pull engine

Thanks guys. It was definitely worth pulling the engine for. His welding skills are phenomenal. Now I just need life to slow down a bit so I can put the engine back in LOL.

Update: I still wasn't satisfied with the clearance I got with the heat and C clamp. I pulled the engine and took the oil pan to my fabrication friend.... this is what I got back. Figured I better just do it right and be done with it. Also wrapped that header tube since the engine was out...

There is ABSOLUTLEY no way to pull this pan while still in the car. A lot of people are talking about what they did with their 1 5/8 headers in their A bodies. BIG difference when you have 1 7/8 headers with 3 1/2 inch collectors in an A body. Anyway. Good news, I used a C clamp and a small...

Yeah that's the plan. Heat it up with the torch first. Currently no oil in the pan so don't have to worry about that.

I've made a decision. I'm going to try to C clamp the header tube as close to the oil pan as possible. Hopefully this will give a little clearance so I can get a tire spoon (like the one shown) in there and beet the **** out of it with a hammer. If I damage the oil pan oh well, it was going...

I have TTI 1 7/8 race headers and just installed new engine in my 71 Dart. It has a milidon road race oil pan and one header tube is resting on the top of the kick out. Any tips on getting clearance without removing engine or headers? This is on the drivers side and this header was a...

Okay guys. Anybody else deal with the #7 slip tube hitting the stock steering shaft right here? It won't allow the #7 tube back far enough to start the bolts. Would there be anything wrong with grinding the lip off of this collar? Of course that would mean pulling the header back out to...

Just an update. Tonight I finally got that slip joint in. What a pain in the ***. Anyway bolts are in the other 3 tubes. It appears the #7 tube is now sitting a little too low but can be bent up. I'll tackle it again tomorrow evening.

Thanks for all the responses. I'll let you guys know what it takes to get this thing in when I get it figured out.

Wasn't wanting to remove the torsion bar but we'll see, might have to. This car still has the original 318 torsion bars.

I haven't done the measurements yet because engine is still in the factory location. Stock k frame, mounts, torsion bars ect.

I did remove the starter stud

Yes, all of that is removed and out of the way. Did your #7 tube seem to be hitting the brake distribution block? This is the slip tube I'm having trouble with.

I am installing TTI 1 7/8 headers on my 71 Dart. Manual Brakes, Manual Steering. Passenger side was easy of course. Driver's side is giving me trouble. Anyone have any pics of these headers after the install from underneath? #7 is a slip tube but I'm having lots of trouble trying to get it...

I love my pypes race pros. Very quite until you stomp it. Car went a tenth quicker when I stalled them