TTI 1 7/8 Race Header Install help

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Walker434

Walker434

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I am installing TTI 1 7/8 headers on my 71 Dart. Manual Brakes, Manual Steering. Passenger side was easy of course. Driver's side is giving me trouble. Anyone have any pics of these headers after the install from underneath?

#7 is a slip tube but I'm having lots of trouble trying to get it hooked back up. I took the tie rod and pitman arm loose per the instructions. Raised the motor up about an inch to get them in place. It appears the #7 tube is getting caught on the brake distribution block and the torsion bar.

Got frustrated and decided to take a break and post on here to see if anyone else has done this install. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
I completelt removed the tie rods, center link and idler arm. The steering was turned to get the pitman arm out of the way.
 
fklskv said:
I completelt removed the tie rods, center link and idler arm. The steering was turned to get the pitman arm out of the way.
Click to expand...
Yes, all of that is removed and out of the way. Did your #7 tube seem to be hitting the brake distribution block? This is the slip tube I'm having trouble with.
 
The only thing mine hit was the flange on the scattershield on the right side. No clearance problems with the slip tube on the left side. Sorry I cant be of more help
 
Not sure if this helps, but....
On my 1-5/8 - 1-3/4. A ran the slip tube all the way in and then turned it to meet the head. Less engine tilt during this tube may help.
 
yes...no. 7 tube will be close to the metering block...got them on a 71 Dart also....

I dont have torsion bars on the car....

actually have the driver side header loose as I am trying to adjust the front band on the 904 but everything is in the way.....
 
Walker434. Did you check the measurements on the center of the crankshaft per TTI?

I know my header is close to the brake block but it doesnt hit it.
 
In my car with 1.14 inch torsion bars I had to take out the bar on that side to get my TTIs in....no amount of spinning the slip tube and banging on it with a rubber hammer would it go in.
 
The sliptube takes a bunch of finese to get in.
From what i remember(it was along time since i installed those headers) install the complete header except the #7 sliptube and drop the engine into position then push the sliptube into its position before turning the flange in towards the head so to speak,what made it difficult is that you need to make that tube slip straight together,any angle in the connection and it will get stuck wish is correct if it was a loose fit it would leak a bunch.
Then again this is from a 10 year old memory... and as usual here comes the disclaimer,these cars are absolutly terrible when it comes to tolerances what works on one car may not work on the next.
 
fklskv said:
Walker434. Did you check the measurements on the center of the crankshaft per TTI?

I know my header is close to the brake block but it doesnt hit it.
Click to expand...
I haven't done the measurements yet because engine is still in the factory location. Stock k frame, mounts, torsion bars ect.
 
67autocross said:
In my car with 1.14 inch torsion bars I had to take out the bar on that side to get my TTIs in....no amount of spinning the slip tube and banging on it with a rubber hammer would it go in.
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Wasn't wanting to remove the torsion bar but we'll see, might have to. This car still has the original 318 torsion bars.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'll let you guys know what it takes to get this thing in when I get it figured out.
 
Walker434 said:
I haven't done the measurements yet because engine is still in the factory location. Stock k frame, mounts, torsion bars ect.
Click to expand...

Stock parts is entierly irrelevant on these cars since the tolerances are so bad in the first place and the space used for headers is so limited and considering the lifes many of these cars have lived.
 
I have them also but with an HDK front end so install was great to say the least, but I also have a question for others. If you notice it's either the #5 or #7 tube falls directly in front of the shift lever not allowing a straight cable install with an aftermarket shifter (cable drive,front entry). I fabbed a 1:1 bellcrank to offset the cable and a heim jointed link from the bell crank to the lever. Not to hijack the thread but I've never heard anyone address this so, what are you guys doing besides reverse entry shifters?
 
68cuda408 said:
I have them also but with an HDK front end so install was great to say the least, but I also have a question for others. If you notice it's either the #5 or #7 tube falls directly in front of the shift lever not allowing a straight cable install with an aftermarket shifter (cable drive,front entry). I fabbed a 1:1 bellcrank to offset the cable and a heim jointed link from the bell crank to the lever. Not to hijack the thread but I've never heard anyone address this so, what are you guys doing besides reverse entry shifters?
Click to expand...

Correct on the tube. I ran my cable out the right side and under the front of the trans.
 
Ahhh,I moved the shifter location back(after replacing the mangled stick hump with an auto) to within a comfortable reach so the entry was to tight on top of the trans. If anyone following this has the same issue, I have 2700 miles and 13 passes with no problems.

20160115_192733.jpg
 
Just an update. Tonight I finally got that slip joint in. What a pain in the ***. Anyway bolts are in the other 3 tubes. It appears the #7 tube is now sitting a little too low but can be bent up. I'll tackle it again tomorrow evening.
 
Glad it's working out for you.fyi you might want to start the cramped bolts to pull the header in.You won't be able to get them in if you snug up the easy ones
 
ValiantRacing said:
Did you make that linkage?
Click to expand...
Yes,I modified the cable bracket to move the cable inward and level. The fabbed bell crank has equal length arms to meet the cable end. On the other arm is a 10/32 threaded rod with heims on each end to the b&m lever. The bell crank pivots on a stud I installed where the throttle pressure linkage was.
 
Okay guys. Anybody else deal with the #7 slip tube hitting the stock steering shaft right here? It won't allow the #7 tube back far enough to start the bolts.

Would there be anything wrong with grinding the lip off of this collar? Of course that would mean pulling the header back out to give me room to grind.

Dart 16.jpg
 
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