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...of course the aftermarket ducts have one on the left side of the driver, which can be nice.

Can you not use a factory A body AC duct? They sure look like they could be adapted.

Not to get too far off topic, but for a LONG time all the MFG and most of the hobby participants thought no one had any 72 cars either, and that "the hobby" stopped after 1971. 72's have kinda crept in as people slowly figure out that styling in dang near identical to 71, and the change from...

I added a signature in my profile right after I posted that, so folks would know I have a 73. It's kind of a raw deal that MFGs think no one has 73 and up cars, even if their products actually do work on them. Surely they could take the time to verify instead of leaving that up to our word of...

That's because no one ever works on 73 and newer cars. We should all know that by now.

The tablets shown on the video cap are Finish brand (formerly Electrasol) and are no longer made. They were my favorite brand. Most available now are gel or at least partially gel. None work as well (for dishes) as those pictured. I use Therm o Cure to flush my radiators. Kind of hard to find...

Was working but not cold. Tried the "Enviro-". Did have gauges attached to both ports. Ran for about 10-15 minutes before it purges it's self. 134a made it better than it was before I tried the other but still not super cold. I found it very odd. Sometimes Chryslers, more than any other...

I tried one of the propane "Enviro- something" brands. My 2000 Dakota puked it back out. I put 134a back in and it's been "better" but not as cold as new. Funny, as it actually vented out the high side connector. I thought it had blown a seal, but after it coughed up all that "refrigerant"...

AFAIK, R134a has never been "outlawed". If it was, you couldn't buy it easily, as is the case with R12. ...but the patent expired.

Rural King has been the cheapest for non-dye, non-leak seal R134a around here.

Bought a half dozen last summer for $7, best price around by far. Haven't priced it this year.

Thanks for the info. Did they provide a list of what intake manifolds worked with their sanden mount? What carb are you running and does it have or act like it needs a idle kick up solenoid?

The flat spring bar style from the 90's-2000's is a little more forgiving to be over expanded than the spring rod style that was OEM in the 70's. I'm not even sure what size they are exactly.

The corbin style band clamps on my Dakota could be used on 2" Radiator hoses.

Corbin style clamps apply pressure more evenly than screw clamps, but have to be properly sized. That's their secret. I got an aftermarket kit for my Satellite ans except for the one non-OEM sized heater line I have, they all worked great. Note some AC equipped small blocks have an extremely...

I've held the job title "engineer" several times although I' don't hold a "PE" degree. One thing I've learned working with both types is that for some reason "engineers" are prone to a "can't see the forest for the trees" mentality for whatever reason.

I've noticed that 66/67 B body appears to be the same as at least 71/71 A body.

My car was garage kept by the first owner and carport kept by the second. I had my hands down the vent stack as far as it could go before painting and there was minimal debris. The evaporator case did leak when I got it but it was because the gasket was folded, causing it to have a gap. I fixed...

I've rebuilt a couple of the slider switches by melting off those pins on the back (or filing them so they allow the rear cover with the nipples to come off. I agree about being extremely careful with those nipples. Then separating the "wafers", being sure to keep them in the proper order, and...

I even tried backing off the pressures/level of 134. Backing down from 50/250 to 45-ish 220-225 raised temp at vent to 52-55-ish but did not stop or even lessen condensation.

Filled to pressures for 134a in my local temp of 95-ish per several charts I found including one here on FxBO. Vent tube through firewall is not plugged. It's condensation on the outside of the box. Thoroughly checked several times to verify.

Which condenser would you recommend? My 1973 B body was converted to R134a by the previous owner. It does a good job of cooling but the evap box under the dash sweats and drips. It is NOT leaking. 50 on the low side and 225 on the high. Blows 48 degrees at the vent on max. I wonder if a more...

The plastic "T" where the fill cap goes in the top hose on my mom's '03 Dakota failed and split just as I was loosening the cap while it was hot. Scalded the HELL out of my arm. That hose assembly was almost $100 at the time. It had already been replaced once. I replaced it with an aluminum T...

Interesting. My row (96-105 at over 40%) says max temp at vent is 61 degrees. My gauges read OK- 50 and 225-ish, but I have 50-55-ish degrees at the vent. I do have a condensation issue on the evaporator box, which ends up dripping inside the car.. Should I remove refrigerant? Should I...

ThermOcure did a very good job removing hard to clear rust from two of my cars including my Dakota with it's fairly well known rusty coolant issues.

Drain is clear and it does drain out the tube. It is condensation on the outside of the box.

I'm having a condensation issue at my evaporator box. It's enough to drip off after about 20 minutes of driving. I haven't got much help on what might be causing it. It doesn't freeze up and blows pretty cold. The car was "professionally" converted to 134a before I got it. I'm thinking about...

That was a joke. I always cringe when I see a race car or even a street car with a tach bolted through an otherwise really nice dash pad. Come on...make a bracket.

Bolt straight through the dash pad? Especially if the pad is otherwise in great condition.

My leak was the pressure relief valve. Somewhat difficult to find. The gas came out with so much pressure, it didn't really leave a trail. Only spot that glowed under dye was the actual relief hole between the spade lugs. About 1/8 inch.