Search results for query: *

650.00 is a lot cheaper than over 2K....No offense...doctor diff is great but axle is 775.00 and center sections are 1275.00....add discs brakes etc... etc. ...scroll down Mopar A-Body 8 3/4" Housing & Axle Package

like Rusty said, you just have to get under there and look with someone rocking the steering wheel back and forth to see where the play is at.....lots of places it could be

Scary steering shaft/coupler failure!

Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"

then like Abodyjoe mentioned at least 1" bars

polyglas GT

well that is .090 difference which is roughly 3/32 bigger than the other one....I personally would not go more than .020 bigger than the hole

oh and they also come in different lengths.....so the longest stud you can get in without pulling the axles out is about 1-1/2 inches......any longer you have to pull axles to install

you want a couple thousands bigger than holes so they fit tight and don't spin.....I drew mine in with impact wrench, lug nuts and washers until they bottomed out on the back side...

I bought these...when I replaced mine and they worked great.... Wheel Lug Stud Rear/Front Dorman 610-186 | eBay .472 knurl diameter but you must check your own with caliper to see what they are.....who knows if they were ever changed

ok then

ok then

I would use the 73 and up setup on it

here is a good read on the foam in the new challengers causing rust by holding moisture.....although it is around the wheel area....If you keep it inside the interior I would think it would be alright Rust Out Issues

I seem to remember all black for everything......including pulley

x2....Just wanted to ad that the torsion bar adjustment only raises or lowers the height.....The diameter of the torsion bar itself determines the firmness of the ride......Just so you understand that.....If you want a stiffer suspension up front you need bigger diameter bars....The bigger...

yes set ride height first with torsion bars....then go for an alignment

Easiest would be stock PS box and pump setup.....

Yes, these are the joints I used also.....As mentioned you have to file/grind a recess half moon in your shaft to get the bolt from the joint through but this prevents the shaft from falling out should the bolt ever loosen up......Kind of a safeguard....Also, I want to mention that you have to...

I used all unisteer joints on mine with flaming river column...Although not a A-body car, the concept is the same......one had splines on one end for the rack and the other end was DD...then went DD shaft up to another joint with 2 DD's....then another piece of DD shaft through support Heim...

notch it

I will tell you what....I am a life long Pennsylvanian but used to have vacation home in Melbourne Florida and go down on vacation....This was back in the 90's....I used to drive my car down there from PA.....1200 miles each way....Anyway, I had a water pump go on me while I was down there and...

Up, wait philllyc, I think we found the nut ^^^^^^^ Just kidding Karl....LOL

r/t specialties http://www.rtspecialties.net/proddetail.asp?prod=3748492 couldn't find the nut though

Ok , so pretty much it is scrap metal then.....I know you can use shumacher mounts on this to put a big block or small block in a A-body but its out of the car already so lets face it, if someone is going to the trouble of putting in a k-frame they will just use a small block or big block k...

I had this laying around the garage and forgot what I took it off of...I mean, I know it is mopar .....I think it is a-body for slant six motor correct? Can anyone tell me for sure by looking at pictures....thanks

A jack.....Sorry, couldn't resist... Seriously though, new springs, add a helper spring, or have a spring shop re-arch your springs

worn tie rod would amount to play in the steering but not a roar....jack up and spin wheel and listen for grinding noise....shouldn't hear any....If you do, wheel bearings....also grab tire at top and bottom and push in top and pull bottom alternately....there should be no play....if there is...

new flaming river column and billet specialties sniper steering wheel....Of course, I had to add the mopar vinyl graphic to the center horn button to make it a mopar!...LOL

Anybody??? I purchased a flaming river column and it appears that if I just file down the master spline on the steering wheel it will fit and bolt right up to the column without any adapter at all......same spline count and diameter shaft....I am not sure if the cancelling tab on the back of the...