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I'm betting they will just as soon as I finish my car.

+2 on the oven cleaner. That's an old trick for removing aluminum anodization, also.

Either. Grant has two styles. A larger one, which is the correct reproduction, with the correct type of horn button, and a smaller one which looks the same. I know that the larger one has the standard Grant pattern AND the factory pattern on it. People who have done it say to go with the factory...

If you find a wheel you like better than the Tuff, for less money than restoring, go for it. But PLEASE keep the Tuff wheel with the car. It's a cool option, and you might change your mind someday, and the next owner will thank you for it. It's not like changing paint color, or adding a scoop -...

For anyone who opts on a new dashpad, don't trash your old one. There are people out there (like me) with none, that wouldn't mind capping a used cracked dashpad.

I've used the #77 because I had it on hand. But the general trim adhesive is probably more appropriate for this application.

3M Super 77 Aerosol adhesive.

I would try a single sided razor blade, then follow up with goof-off.

I've only had bench cars, but from what I understand, the factory buckets are lower right off the bat. I'm 5'5", and my sport bench duster feels tight. And my daily is a MINI Cooper. I can only imagine being 6' plus in a bench seat duster.

If you get the repro Tuff wheel, you can use the universal Grant adapter for Mopar. This is what people are referring to when they say you don't NEED the spacer. In this case, you will need to bend your turn signal stalk away from the wheel. Either the Grant Tuff wheel spacer or the OE Mopar one...

Why half-*** it? If you plan to eventually use OE buckets, either focus on that, or run whatever the car came with until you go with the buckets. I'm not saying it's wrong to run incorrect seats, but why double your work to run something you really don't want?

Oh, I'm not the one to ask on that. My pad is already off, and I'll pull the cluster and drop the column. I think a good cleaning, scuffing it with scotchbrite, and then a wipe down with lacquer thinner should suffice. Then there is a trick to getting the textured finish, playing with the air...

Lots of people paint them in place, and that is what I plan to do.

I don't like tint on anything. But I really think it's out of place on classic / older cars.

Rustoleum oil base is some great stuff. I buy it by the quart now. I'm hoping the flat black will have the right sheen for the dash if I spray it on heavy. I'll probably do the interior of my Cal Look Beetle with it, as well.

Ahh, mine is also flaking in the corners (where it folds). I was hoping I could get by with using a stiff nylon brush to remove the loose surface, then paint.

What paint did you use? I'm told Acrylic Lacquer is the tool of choice, sprayed directly on a clean surface. I'm going to be doing mine (green to black also) when I get around to the interior. I'm going to use my HVLP, though.

Wow, that IS nice!. I really prefer the rubber mat over carpet myself, and I also like the Joe Dirt gas pedal. But those seats are tops. Great job.

Thanks again. I had a (knowlegeable) friend advise against it. I reason that if most automotive leather is top dyed, the right product applied properly on a prepared vinyl surface should hold up.

Ram, thanks for the tip. Have you done the front seat of a driver? If so, did it hold up? I got a set of front and rear seats with an older recover in decent condition for $150. Reason they were so cheap? Aside from being a less than perfect job (this car is a driver), they were done in light...

That's real nice!