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I wouldn't mess with trying to remove the ring on the tank. The pics show a clean surface for the sending unit gasket and sender to seal to the tank. As long as you can get the lock ring on and turn it and lock in place, your good to go. Don't use a aftermarket lock ring as they don't seal as...

That's why I wasn't sure about a '66. I pulled parts from a '66 Dart in a junk yard and it was a cable throttle, but it was an a/c car. I grabbed the a/c radiator and shroud

Yeah, I wasn't sure about '66.

Any year after '65 will work. '65 was last year of the throttle rod linkage, I believe.

Tanks Inc is out of Iowa and they show up at various shows here in Minnesota. I know plenty of guys who use them for custom applications such as fuel injection. Never hear any complaints.

Spectra

Great pictures. I reuse the original whenever I can. New float and sock and original lock ring.

What I do is test them before installing in the tank. I hook it up to the connector at the tank and ground it. I have someone watch the gauge as I slowly run it through it's range. Start at the FULL position, stop at 3/4, then 1/2, then 1/4 and finally at EMPTY. Then I check by gauge position...

Too bad the vendors won't put the time into building a quality sending unit. The units in the past were. Shouldn't have to calibrate them or try to make them work. That should be done at the factory. Just lazy.

Quality control on today's gauges is different. If the ohms read 73 on the EMPTY stop and 10 on the FULL stop, it passes. They are not checked through the full range as they were in the past. So, the sender could reach full or empty anywhere in the swing. No bending of the float arm will fix...

Carter BBS 3230s is correct for '62 Valiant with auto trans. Looks like a kit has been installed recently. The throttle shaft may need to be rebushed. A common wear issue on Carter carbs. Could be a bad accel pump also. May just need another kit installed. I took an air cleaner like yours...

The filler tube seal is available from many Mopar vendors. Van's, etc.

The problem with the repop sending units is current quality control standards. If the unit reads the correct ohms at the empty position and the correct ohms at the full position - it passes. It doesn't matter what it reads anywhere between the empty and full limits of the float arm. So, it's a...

I had the problem with leakage from the sending unit area when I installed my new tank. Used the old lock ring and it still leaked. I found the issue to be the stamped sending unit opening lip does not always sit flush with the sending unit mating surface. I took a fuel resistant o-ring 2 1/8"...

Same here.

With today's repop sending units, the ohms are only tested in the full and empty positions. If they meet those specs, they pass "quality control". In the past, they were tested through the full range of the sending unit and had to be accurate through the full range to pass.

Is the choke butterfly connected to the end of the choke rod?

Sounds like the choke is not set up correctly or not attached. The "notched" plate is part of the choke mechanism. Two idle screws side by side. One for hot base idle and the notched one for fast idle tied in with the choke plate. Doesn't sound like the choke rod is attached to the carb.

You installed it between the carb and the pump. Vertical or horizontal?

Laysons makes a conversion vent kit to help prevent the overflow. It is pricey though. My '76 Swinger isn't really a problem, but I too listen for the gurgling in the tank and shut it off. My '65 Valiant is a different story. Filler is much lower on the bod. I never fill this baby full anymore...