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Tti shorties.

I didn't have to drill and retap anything. The brass fittings I used came with the intake and fit the factory holes. I'm pretty sure both heater hoses on my 68 are the same size. I know the factory changed to two different sized hoses at some point. If that's the case, then there are reducer...

There are three tapped holes on the front of the intake. Two on the PS and one on the DS. You can utilize any of them you want for your specific application. I put a pipe plug in the DS one and used the two on the PS. One is a small hole for the factory temp sender. The other is larger. I...

There are factory throttle return brackets that utilize the front two mounting bolts on the intake. The mounting location for the spring is then right in the middle of the two holes. That's the style of bracket I used. The only thing I had to do was bend the bracket more vertical. It was...

If you are talking about the fuel filters that were used in the 80's with a third nipple that comes off the side of the "can", that isn't for a "vapor" line. It's for a return line to the tank. Raw fuel will come out of that line. It should be routed to the tank...not a charcoal canister.

Is that just a straight tube? The stock tubes weren't straight. I read on this site where someone recommended to install it first, then insert a long screwdriver into the tube and bend it back a little. I've only ever used a stock tube so I'm not sure which way is best to put the bend in it.

Did you change the oil at the same time you replaced the rockers or has the oil been in the engine while you were waiting on parts? I'd pressure test the cooling system but it could just be condensation. I get that milky crap in my oil catch can on my Ram all the time. It sits most of the...

Of the 7 water pump mounting bolt locations, 3 of them are threaded and 4 go all the way through into the engine block. The only holes open to water are the 2 directly below the large coolant holes.

Yes, Saginaw pump.

I agree. That is a small block power steering pump bracket.

These are an option but they are pricey. Valve cover spacers. MediceMfg ...Valve Cover Spacers - Mopar

The limiting factor is the electric choke. A 3/4" drop base is all you can use. Any more then that and the base will touch the choke and not lay flat on the carb. If Edelbrock makes a non electric choke version, you'll be able to fit a base with more drop. I used a 14" base with a 1" drop on...

I haven't tried this yet but I've heard it works great at cleaning the rust out of the inside of the engine. Fill the cooling system with EvapoRust. It will attack the rust but leave the base metal alone. Run the engine up to operating temperature and shut it off. Let the engine cool over...

The bottom of the bolts are exposed to oil. Oil will wick up the threads if you don't use some kind of sealer.

Here is a list of items that were on the engine when it got painted. bypass hose exhaust manifolds throttle bracket upper kickdown pivot (on 3-piece linkage setups) throttle return spring bracket dipstick tube harmonic balancer torque convertor bell housing on stick cars some years...

340s were orange at the beginning of 71. They changed to blue in May I believe. As said above, years of oil leaks will make blue look like turquoise.

A lot of times when a set of heads is machined, only the block surface is touched. This can cause the intake bolt holes to not line up properly. Material needs to be removed from the intake sealing surface of the head as well. I just test fit my new air gap intake on my 360. I can just barely...

Mancini sells the correct bracket. I think it's around $30. I just extended my 2-barrel bracket.

A regular 1/2" nipple isn't going to fit in that hole. The factory had a special fitting that was tapered. 5/8" nipple on left 1/2" nipple on right factory tapered nipple in the center(for 1/2" hose)

The paint is probably just holding it on.

If there is a groove, you can buy a sleeve that presses over the bad spot so the seal has a smooth surface to ride against.

Since the engine is out, re-gasket the entire thing. It's WAY easier to do now then once it's back in the car.

At what pressure does the factory sending unit turn on the light? Hook up a mechanical gauge and see what the pressure is really at.

One of the 340-360 mounts is different. You have to add a spacer to use a 318 mount on a 340 or 360. I'm not sure if a 340-360 mount will bolt to a 318 or if it will hit one of the "ears".

A guy on another site just had a similar issue. His car was running strong when it was cold but was a dog when it got up to operating temp. His issue ended up being an orange box that was failing. Do you have a points distributor to throw on it and see how it acts? I wonder if the Pertronix is...

That intake uses the 70's style aluminum water neck. The factory went to a small steel neck sometime in the 80's. I'm not sure what they used in the 60's.

I would. It's already torn down this far.

I assume the machine shop magnafluxed the entire head. What did the intake gaskets look like? Could you have sucked coolant into the right bank from a bad intake gasket? Drain the oil out and see if there is any antifreeze in it.

I de-rust a lot of parts with it. I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable running it in an engine though. The stuff makes nasty fumes. Even the fumes will start rusting metal parts. I ruined an aluminum part by leaving it in the acid too long. I have heard of people using EvapoRust inside the...

Pool cleaner is muriatic acid. Be very careful with that stuff. It will eat aluminum pretty fast.