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Lowering it might not do anything if the needle valve is worn. I would just take it apart and have a good look at everything.

Does sound like the float. I would open it up and have a look at everything. Don't trust someone elses work who you don't know. Make sure the float setting, metering rods, jets, etc., are what they should be.

Looks like the one I had on my '71 Chargers 318. From what I remember having rebuild a few over the years there was a low-top and a high-top and a couple different venturi sizes (a 1-1/4 and a 1-1/2 if I remember correctly). Yours is a low-top and my guess would be a late 60's to very early 70's...

Well at least you figured it out. Got to love those POS caps that don't last worth a damn. Glad to see the thread get its answer though, too many times a thread stops with no answer to what the hell solved the problem.

Could be a big problem from the get-go is you did over torque it and warped the carb. base.

Fix it right. Sealer on a carb. base plate gasket is a no go.

I wouldn't put any sealer on the gasket as the gas will eat it up. Any parts store should carry the square bore to spread bore adapter. Had the same situation when I bought a truck with a Holley stuffed on a spread bore manifold.

I too like Joe said would be looking at the fuel pressure, 10 is too high. That amount of pressure could easily force its way passed the needle and seat and dump too much fuel causing it to run way rich and bog down.

I think you should reach that goal of around 14 mpg with the proper tune. Ign. and carb. properly setup plays a huge role in MPG's. Now you just have to try and keep your foot out of the secondaries! :toothy7::poke::toothy7:

If it was me I would swap the springs to get the total in a lot sooner on a lightweight car like our A's. Then see how much total she likes.

Tony, 7-8 inches sounds low to me for that combo. What is your timing setup like? Initial, total, all in by? Have you tried a lighter spring setup for the dizzy? No vacuum adavance?

Timed vacuum port on the pass. side has no manifold vacuum at idle while the drivers side does. Thats the only difference, idle.

If you have fuel leaking out with the engine off then that tells me the carb. has to much fuel in it. I would look at the needle and seat for damage or an obstruction and the floats for free movement. The cam and timing would come into play when the engine is running but not when its off.

I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Those things are more of a restrictor than a regulator, plus you won't know what psi your getting without actually testing it.

Are you reading the numbers on the regulator or have you hooked up a known good gauge to read the psi? Those Mr. Gasket regulators are not known for being accurate. A good one like Oldschoolcuda was mentioning can be had from someone like holley, mallory, aeromotive, etc...

If both of those are fine then check for something blocking the needle and seat assy.

You really shouldn't put your filter over the alt. bad idea having gas and metal right over something electrical. I would put the regulator above the frame in the pocket below the alt. and run the line with a 90 over with a bracket to hold it steady. That way its safe and stll easy to adjust and...

Sounds like you got crap in your carb. I would pull it apart and clean out all the passages. Get a can of carb. cleaner with the little red hose and pull the needle and seat, idle mixture screws, etc. and spray them all clean so you know all the passages flow well. put it back together and set...

Three things for sure you NEVER want to rigg on a car are.... Brakes Electrical Fuel Crash, fire, and burning are no bueno. Check your local auto parts spin rack for the o-rings. they are only a couple bucks max.

I have never used a cork end seals. I use permatex ultra-grey as it is a rigid high torque sealer and never had an issue. the only time I use the supplied end seals is if they are rubber ones with the locating tabs. all you have to do is make sure you put a good thick bead without going over...

doesn't look like it would take much thickness. edelbrock 9266 or 9265 are 0.300 thick so all your cables and linkage should work without modifications. since you have a dual plane I would just go with the divided one.

I would add an insulator spacer. Fix the problem and help the carb./fuel stay cool.

I too would say get a carter/eddy carb. I have a 600 eddy on my 318 and with a little tuning I really like it. I have rebuilt holleys, carters, and q-jets and the carter/eddys are pretty easy to rebuild and tune. While I do prefer holleys for higher hp engines there are varying types of holleys...

they should not have any fuel inside them. they are cheap so just get a new one and reset the level. also look at the needle and seat while you have it apart like SG recommended.

I say just run one, its not going to have any effect on your performance. I had first hand experience with the condensation issue on my old truck. when I bought it had no pcv and one day noticed a coffee colored buildup under the valve cover. put on a pcv and no more issues. I also hear it helps...

could be. when are you gonna swap over to the holley? that will tell you for sure.

36 total sounds right but you obviously went in the right direction if you gained that much at the track. are you running vacuum advance at all? from what I have seen most open chamber heads will like a little more total timing while close chambers a bit less. for comparison my 318 has 302...

what is the timing at (before track and after) and are you running just mechanical?