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I've not done it that I know of, but I've read that there is room for TWO rollers in the cavity of the input shaft...that two of them can sit there after being displaced and you won't know it from anything you can see. The 1000 miles a year was meant to be taken in the extreme. More likely...

A hypothetical: Suppose, while placing the 833 mainshaft into the input gear, a roller is displaced. What's a guess as to how long it would take to feel/know/find out that happened? I had my 833 apart 30 years ago and maybe made that error. The car is rarely driven..and rarely in this...

Thanks. Although...being a exspurt, I don't need luck. I HAVE had an 833 apart before, and even put it back together! ...once. ;)

No bueno. Noise was MUCH reduced, but a good-n-hot ride later brought it noticeably back. It's (trans) gotta come out. Thanks to all for input. I do understand it was starry-eyed wishin' that a fluid change would 'fix' anything, but I was hopeful. ...don't like that word. It might make...

Update: New lube in the tranny. If I hadn't heard it before to have an idea what to listen FOR, I wouldn't hear anything now. The way it is now would never have caught my attention. I was figuring it would shift a whole lot different going from ATF to 90W gear oil. Not so much...

Yes. Everything there is snug...complete with proper spring clips on the shifter rod ends. This noise is not of an external nature. There is a 'depth' to the noise. It seems to be coming from inside the trans. I did recently replace the OEM crossmember mount with a poly-bushed version...

Understood and agreed. That's what bothers me most about the matter...that it's maybe engine based not transmission based. I have spent time looking for the problem from an engine perspective, mostly spark; wires, rotor, cap, boots and such. I have not found anything wrong to date...but I am...

TO bearing does not touch the plate fingers when running, clutch pedal not pressed. When the noise is going on...the TO bearing is not moving. A Hurst T-handle with a Line-Loc button. I hope to not be so lucky with my noises. This occurred to me: Some years back I knew a guy that put a...

Thank you. I picked up a 26-spline 833 years ago as a spare, did not realize at the time it WAS a 26, did not know back then there was such a thing. I am considering using it as a stand-in for the 833 I am currently using...as it might have some problems of its own and might be taken out...

An education, please, on the history and reason for the two different spline configurations for the 833? Was it the introduction of the 340 that brought about the 30 spline shaft? I presume the 30 spline shaft is larger in diameter than the 26? Will the 26 spline live with a 340 OK? My...

It does occur to me that I'm worried about no big deal. Is it noisy? Certainly. Is it a problem? Maybe not? I don't generally sit IN the car with it idling. That I think it's a brand new noise could be incorrect on my part. Sounds like trouble to me. Reading about noises the 833 makes...

That's good to know. Thanks.

Thanks! It's been awhile since I looked inside. I remembered (which I do poorly) that there was room to leave the cluster in. That makes it all the more complicated: Both the front bearing replacement, AND the remembery. Having never taken an 833 completely apart (I replaced a broken 2nd...

Dexron isn't 'made for' stick transmissions. The folks selling the New Process gearboxes in their cars (Mopar) say it is suitable for use in those gearboxes. No argument is being made that Dexron is The Best oil for the job, but it cannot be argued that it is NOT suitable for use...

Clutch is a McLeod B&B/Long combo, an 11"/10.5" plate/disc combo. Call it a 10.95" plate if that suits. Fluid is Dexron. Before you guffaw, hoot, and deride, keep in mind that Ma Mopar says Dexron is fine for cold weather use. I wouldn't race with it, but that's not how I use the car these...

Looking for best guesses on new breakage. It's a transmission issue. It might be clutch related, but kind'a doubt it. Engine running, trans in neutral, clutch pedal pushed, things are quiet. Let the pedal out, and I can hear and feel (in the shifter) a gravelly racket. Not quite rocks in a...

Taking a car in for a 'once over' for 'bolts and nuts' is not quite the same as 'for an alignment'. Also, any install/build/work that would NOT include adding fluid/lubrication is a Red Flag presaging many problems to come, some of them surely dangerous and/or harmful to you. In this instance...

Agreed. At this point of lack of information, who knows if the under-dash spring is even in the car? Checking the pedal travel comes AFTER knowing what you're working with in the first place. Curious that it's not even said if the installed clutch is for a chevy (diaphragm). I vote for B&B...

A story for you: I purchased a '68 charger (440HP/RT) from a dealer about 100 miles away. The PO said it leaked tranny fluid, so make sure that problem was OK. Fluid was checked. It was fine. I drove it home. I checked the fluid a week or so later having driven it regularly during that...

Good to hear. You are welcome. When you put it back together, keep the rod orientation in mind. There is a lot of good information in this thread. Keeping the levers tight to the fork studs, knowing that slop in that connection is bad, it's all important. Make sure you have the right rods...

If you are headed in the 'take it apart' direction, I'll add a couple of things to consider. Keep all the plates/shims/springs straight. Take notes, KNOW which one goes where and faces which direction. The notes you take should be sufficient for someone else to put it together...someone that...

A dirty (not talking about the neutral gate...but dirt) shifter can cause shifting/grinding stuff as you describe. It's happened to me. I thought a small bit of resistance in the shift plates wasn't a problem. I took the shifter apart anyway, cleaned and lubricated (teflon) every shim and...

This in reference to taking the rods out of the shifter? You did say 'out'. This is NOT a reference to moving the shifter levers back and forth and the installed rods interfering with each other, right? It has been a couple of years since I've had my shifter/levers/rods apart. IIRC, the 1-2...

Considering this: A855 - 5 Speed What is the general point of view of the efficacy of the 855? I'm 'on the list'. I have always had my reservations about the meaning of that..if there is any meaning to it at all. I have the coin. I have been thinking of stirring the pot to find out...

I had a '68 Charger R/T 440HP 4-speed. Before I bought the car, I was told by the previous owner to be sure to have the transmission looked at, 'cuz it leaked bad. The dealer 'checked' it, said it was fine. I drove it home; about 100 miles. Drove it a good bit after that too, no leaks no...

McLeod said a 260150 is what I need. Thanks for that!

My current clutch components aren't as much the issue as I understood the 855 would work with what I have. That is turning out to not be so. I would like to keep my McLeod PP. I spent a good deal of $$ getting it set up. I see 18 spline disks sold at 10.95" and 23 spline disks at 11". Don't...

I'm lining up parts I need to swap my 833 for an PP 855. I remembered reading (I thought) that Passon would supply a 23 spline model but, they don't. What do I need to know to get an 18 spline disk that will replace my A-body 23-spline setup? Any BB 18 spline will do? Any particular disk...

Thank you for your input. While it is likely to be a 'just stupid' price, I did find a NOS 45T long shaft on the bay. Expensive at 1/2 the price...but that's what I need and that's the price. Sometimes it's just worth it. Now then...about that Passon A-855....

Bumping this for another try. It's been years ago that I swapped in a different 833. I question the 'smaller mainshaft' idea. Maybe it was a -60/-90 U-joint difference. I do recall I needed a different slip yoke from what the '69 833 had in it. Also, what is the application differences for...