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Thanks for all the replies and help. We got it all back together tonight. I ended up using a set of stock adjuster bolts (and blocks). Turns out they are about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch shorter than the adjuster bolts that came from Mancini. We cleaned up the stock bolts and blocks, lubed them...

The alignment shop only did an alignment. (Just wish they would have pointed out a few things that even my untrained eye picked up on) All the parts and pieces were installed by a shop that is no longer doing rebuilds. At this point it really does not matter who did or did not do what. I will...

One reason we decided to tear it down is, it appears that there was not any lube on the adjuster bolts or on the torsion bars. One of the adjuster bolts had already bent somehow. The car has probably 30 miles on it. So I started looking around at a few things. Brake lines rubbing steering...

Anyone happen to know somewhere I can order a T-bar removal tool and have it shipped overnight? Classic Industries is out of stock. Jegs and Summit don't show them so???? Any ideas?

Finally got both sides out. Now trying to find someone local that has a torsion bar removal tool so we don't knick the bars. Thought once the bolts were loose/out we could slide the bars back to check/clock them. But it appears they might have been installed withOUT lube and they don't want...

Already ran into a road block. The passengers side adjustment bolt came almost all the way out but will not come out of the block. It won't go back in and it won't come out.

Just got to the shop to start the tear down.

Car was stripped to a shell then painted on a rotisserie. The only structure work was a small patch panel under the rear seat and US Car Tool subframes were welded on. We are going to pull the torsion bars back out tonight. Figured after talking with a few people via PM and talking with my...

Yes the motor and transmission are in. The car was assembled by a shop that had built several/many Mopars. It has also been to a front end alignment shop that is very well known among local Mopar guys and hot rodders. Then it went back to the machine shop that specializes in Mopars. I put...

Sorry I forgot that I got the torsion bar parts from Mancini..... Mancini Racing..... MOPP5249151 - Mopar Performance A-body .920 torsion bar set MREQE173 - Mopar Torsion Bar Lock and Seal Kit MRE35612 - Torsion Bar Adjuster (x2)

Starting to go over a few things on the 70 Duster now that I live where I can mess with more than for 20-30 minutes at a time. I started to crawl under the car and noticed the torsion bar adjusters are sticking out of the lower control arm by probably, 2-3 inches? I did not recall ever seeing...

The later model spool type k-members are /6 and small block specific. The mounts are off set for the /6. But like you said, mounts are made for swaps.

Thanks that is the real world info that I was asking about.

Does using the /6 K member and Schumacher mounts change anything in the way of clearances for headers?

Getting the suspension ready for a Duster project. I have access to a /6 K member spool type but thinking it might be better to locate a V8 spool K member? Are there any major strength differences or benefit to using a V8 spool K member over a /6 spool K member? I will be using a 360 block...

I shopped around this morning trying to decide on what to go with. I was torn between the Just Suspension 1.00 bars (actually .980 according to most buyers) and the Mopar Performance .920 bars. I gave in and went with the Mopar Performance bars and ordered the locks/seals and new adjusters...

I already bought the Bilsteins when I ordered the PST super front end kit.

1.00 bars would probably be overkill for my set-up. Stock rear leafs re-arched to factory specs. US car tool weld in frame connectors, stock front suspension with PST super poly kit and the 11/16 tie rods and Bilstein shocks. I won't go road racing or anything. Just looking for a better ride...

I was looking at ordering the torsion bars and adjusters for the 70 Duster project. Being it will be a small block I am leaning towards the .890 bars. Just not sure what brand to go with? Mopar (Mancini Racing), PST, or Firm Feel? Are they mostly made by one company and rebadged? Also are...

All my powdercoating is being done locally to where the car is being done.

Going to send the front suspension out for powder coating for my Duster. I am going for the "somewhat" stock look. Should I have the lower control arms done in grey, then paint the gold over that to give them a "cosmoline" look? Or should I just have them done in gold? Like I said not going...

Thanks! The Dart was a father/son project. My Dad did most of the work (except paint and body) and I helped a bit when I was in town. Like I said, looking at the pictures it does not look to bad, or to high in the back. However when riding in the car it really looks like you are looking...

I did not figure that was the "correct" way to measure it, just looking for a quick reference to see if was close to what most peoples 70-72 Dart measured? I will measure the front tomorrow when we start messing with it again. Looking at the car it does not appear to be to high in the...

Got our 71 Dart out and cleaned it up. I think when we rebuilt the suspension, the shop that rearched the springs might have put to much arch in them. Measuring from the ground to the wheel lip (using the wheel center as a reference point) it measures... Pass rear 25 7/8 Dr. rear 25 3/4...

On our Dart we used automotive paint. For the Duster, I had it powder coated and will never paint another one!

please delete

I chickened out. Started thinking about spending the money to mini tub this car and just decided that I need to stop adding extra expenses to the car. Otherwise it was going to end up being a 3-4 year build. With the money that I was thinking of spending on the mini tub and related expenses...

I live about 800 miles from the shop so I am only involved via phone or email. The project was pulled from one shop and taken to another. This down time has made me start thinking about changing directions a little bit and doing a few extras. But also it will add some extra time. Not to...

Thanks for the replies. My car is completely torn down and in the bodyshop so all the interior is already removed. In fact right now the only things left on the car is the k-member, front supension and rear end so the car car roll around the shop. Still undecided on the minitub job. I still...

That is about what I have found. I just wanted to make sure that was in line with what the job requires. Did you keep a back seat, did you have to modify it?