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as soon as I get time I am going to stick the 950 on it its been seting for the year I have had it. I had no clue thay were bendable I fought with those SOBs for an hour guess i know now. The mildons are the ones on it now but they leak a little and dont seal well. they do clear the Heater...

OK put on the MSD Dist and the crane HI 6 Box and it got rid of the busting up. The carb is still a sore point It bogs a little off the line and back fires on the let off when you hit it hard other than that it pulls pretty hard up the rev limiter at 5500. I was thinking of sticking that 950...

I have access to one. And this is not mine I have a small block and a big block

I have gotten most of the ping out but why does it ping when i give it more timing. I tryd to give it about 15 int degrees and it pinged its axx off. I had to set it back to about 5 int to get it to run half axx. The Vac advance is fine and seems to be working. It still bust up a little...

My buddies 440 has these heads on it. I have never had any dealings with The Indy cast heads to be honest I dint know they made them. He says the have 2.14 and 1.81 valves but other than that knows less than I do. Does anyone have any history with these. Iam going to look when I get time he say...

cool i will loan him my MSD and carb since niether are doing anything but collecting dust. I figured that the 950 would be a little much for the 480 lift cam. I dumped out all the bad gas and put in some better 93 and it helped. I still has a little ping to it. If you take up the timing tp...

hey great to hear from all of you guys.. Craig is down in vegas building the world. i still hear from him once in awhile. I work constantly and stay broke. Hey Brett you dont think that 950 is a little much for that small cam?? I have a MSD dist and a cran HI6 box that i can...

Hey guys been a long time. Need a little help with some engine trouble. buddy has a 440 in a 67 Cuda. the 440 is supposed to be a stock steel crank with ly rods and KB 10.5-1 flat tops. the head are supposed to be Indy Cast with 1.81 and 2.14 valves. the cam is the comp hyd 480 lift...

Hey Jack and Adam It was the timmingI advanced it some more and got a better timing light. Good to hear from you guys. I live out in the country now and dial up just about kills us.

I will give it a try and see. thanks guys

Hey guys long time no see. To much work and not enough time. To the point. My dart has been laid up awhile whith a blown TQ. Finaly found the cash to come up with a new TQ, 2500 stall to match the 236@50 cam. The carb is a bigs 650 and the tranny is a 904. The engine has been laid up a couple...

i have TTIs on my 340 and its not that big of a deal.

$225 here at Joes shop. You do know that you will need new pistons to go with that stroker crank if you are going from stock?? If you do that then take everything to be ballanced pistons , rods, flex plate, ballancer and any pullyes you are goin to run. the more the better. When i had my 440...

damn Craig sound like you may have gotten lucky with that 360, so whats the plan with it???

goo advice about the distr

if you are going to build the motor or replace it dont even bother. Its a real pain in the *** from under the car and messy to. If its not pouring oil just go with it untill you replace it with the 340.

hell I cant find anything at napa. not even a radiator cap :shock:

cheap insurance.

hey Tim after reading your build get a new shaft for sure, you have to much money invested to blow it on a oil pump shaft.

if this a performance set up I would opt to buy a new shaft they are cheap like $25.00 If you a running a high flow oil pump they recommend a new shaft. Is the bad one new? If so take it back and get an exchange.

fire it up and run it to temp if its blowing oil up on to the hood you should be able to see it. you might ahve to run it up to 2500 rpm but that much presure you think you would see where its coming from. Do you have a breather cap?? also check your PCV may be bad causing back pressure.

those are the most likely reasons, i would think oil sending unit first and then blow buy if its all over the hood must have some pressure on it.

did the machine shop install the new bushing? If so tear it down and take it back to the shop they will have a burnisher to size it with. just sounds as if someone for got to size it after the installed the bushing. They may have a burnisher like they use on valves guides that you just hammer...

did you coat both gears with moly lube or white grease???, You should be able to just push down with a flat balde screwdriver while you spin the crank over with a pull handel and it will go right down. It will not go in with out turning the crank at the same time because of the way the gears a...

my engine guy told me use the cheapo for the first 30 min would be fine after that go with a good qaulity multi vescocity oil for the next 150 miles alternating fron 30 to about 60 MPH afetr that I could go with a good synthetic oil. I will run mobile 1 in it afte the first 150.

its agreed the 440 it is. **** can the 318 and in with the BB :D :D

this is true , I thnink you might want to start lokking that way cause that 318 has seen its last days with that piston thing. The only trouble is the mounts and the exhauset and you can get those. Buy the 440 and get started. It will be better tahn throwing you money into that 318 and watching...

I am going with a cheao 10w30, it will only see about 30 min and then in goes the mobile 1.

get you a haynes manual or any tech manual they will explain it better than we can and they have pictures. With you gear set up i dont know I have never used one. With a chain just put the cam shat dot at the bottom and the crank dot at the top and line them up as close to posible and you will...

yes, they have to line up or the bearing will seeze.