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If your current panels are factory. Hit the joint with heat to melt the lead on the outer edge of the tail light opening. Once the lead is removed you will be able to see the joint for sure. My body guy only had to replace my quarters, so I would say the the quarters would go over the tail panel.

Sandy’s Bumper Mart, Inc located in Syracuse, NY

How did you make out with your project?

Yep, rust loves to hide where you cannot see.

Sounds like he knew what he did letting his load go. Too bad cruiser, hope you can find a replacement hood.

Sorry to hear of that news cruiser. As mentioned previously, I would have chased that truck down.

If you can't adjust the striker any longer, then check your door hinges are probably worn out.

I wasn't in a rush, so I waited 90 days after painting, the same as waiting to wax it. Better safe than sorry.

Give me a bit, have to remove winter cover and grab a pic.

The spring goes through the lug wrench and the other end hooks to the jack. Jack up the jack in the cradle until the spring is secure.

I found that butyl tape worked great and came recommended by my professional retired body man. It allowed repositioning and with no squeeze-out during fastening.

I used 1/8 thick by 1/2 wide butyl tape. Work great to provide an extra seal between the two pieces of metal.

If you are going to do any metalwork, you need to begin with complete metal. Plastic filler must be removed! Hamers and steel dollies need clean metal to stretch and shrink.

That would be my guess, you have to add metal to close the gap.

I used Sandy's Bumper Mart in Syracuse, NY. They did a fine job for my bumpers. Sandy’s Bumper Mart, Inc.

Cudamike, you should do it for me since she came from Glenwood Motors, Riverside, CA. Ha

It's a 73 Duster. I don't see that happening at least by me. Want to do it when you get back east? And yes it has A/C.

Ok thanks, I need to look up under there to see if they're accessible without too much difficultly.

Like these?

Bushings, I haven't been able to take a peak under there.

Cudamark, Got pics of these parts?

Just curious, what retainer did you find where the pivot attaches to the linkage? My wiper quit some time ago. Motor runs fine, you can move wiper manually. I think the attach point let go. I'm too old and big to get my body down under there to look up.

AMD hands down. My body guy did the fit and finish on my rear quarter panels. Only had to stretch left panel slightly by trunk lip for a perfect fit. He was pleased with their reproduction stamping and gauge thickness.

Have some fun and good luck too! You'll never use any filler again. And if you don't like the results, just melt it out and start over, it's so easy and forgiving. Just watch your heat! My 76 year old body man is a master craftsman when it comes to leading.

You have to blame the "Naugahyde" popularity in the 60's & 70's. Designers went crazy with the product and apparently Detroit picked up on it! Too bad there became a shortage of an animal called a "Nauga." The rest is history.

Mine looks like the day it was installed. I used Ralley Vinyl Top Dressing since it was new, treated once a year until I ran out of the stuff. I believe that what saved it and no rust bubbles to be found. I wish I had purchased several spare cans.

You will find that leading is so easy once you master the technique. The finished product is rewarding. There are many videos out there, Eastwood has a blog on the subject.

I'm "old school", I prefer lead whenever and wherever possible. Many autobody suppliers still sell it. I find using lead solder paddles to be relaxing.

Exterior panels attach areas should have been leaded. As Alaskan said internals is where seam sealer was used.

I remember that blanket making you itch like hell, good for only one thing...dust cover. No other purpose for sure in the tropics. Someone thought it was a good choice of fabric because who would steal it!