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I’m a 30 year electrician if that makes a hill of beans. But I would clean the remaining tabs and make up new ones made exactly like the originals and solder them on top. I would not recommend you to drill the rivets because you will lose the clamping force on the connection.

exactly the way you have them shown Purple to Orange and Green to Black

just use bare crimp on connectors and heat shrink looks a lot cleaner than the insulated ones and works as intended.

most times a visual inspection doesn’t work for a fuse link. Check voltage to and through it to the amp gauge

Your fuse link is probably blown check that for the no power condition. Can I ask how you bypassed the factory ballast resistor?

Ray (@halifaxhops)will hook you up.

Have you check the bulkhead connections to be sure they are clean and tight? you have a loose or dirty connection somewhere. Also look at your voltage regulator connections as well.

DEUTSCH 16 AWG Assembled Deutsch 6 Pin Waterproof Connector 6" Wire for Engine Gearbox for sale online | eBay

Rick @ Layson’s told me that’s who he thought made the hemi cables they carry.

Thanks Steve, I guess I should have been more specific on the cable. I’m looking for the positive cable for a 69’ hemi b body manual trans and there’s more to that cable as it has the reverse and oil pressure harness in it.

Anyone have experience with or used the reproduction battery cables that Layson’s offer. Just wondering if there’s any quality issues with them like high resistance or bad post terminals. Thanks

Looks great! What are you powering with it?

what’s the story on them post in the second to last pic posted? looks like they are touching the housing

the voltage limiter is built into the fuel gauge the circled item is a condenser it’s purpose is to keep the reference voltage stable and noise suppression

This a 67’? If so mash the tab and pull it off the speedometer. If you are gonna pull the cable out of the tube just disconnect it at the trans and pull it out. Clean and lube it and push it back in. Make sure the square end is seated in the speedometer then reinstall in the trans. yea I had it...

Fuses are built with different time delays in them so you could use the same amp fuse with Less delay

Nope flip em simultaneously and she’ll keep on ticking

Mike, I wired my charging circuit exactly like the factory diagram. you didn’t mention what year but should be the same deal. on the ignition 1 and 2 i used two toggle switches to accomplish the start and run circuit for the coil along with the ballast resistor. If using and MSD ignition you...

There’s size ranges on them in example 14-16 gauge same terminal and 10-12 gauge same terminal 18-20 gauge same terminal

Yea looks normal for about 10,000 miles or so:lol: But if it’s not misfiring just run it.

the coil you have should work fine. my opinion is something is making the ignition work harder than it should. Have you eliminated the ballast resistor? if the coil is a 12 volt rated coil you don’t need it. Also check voltage at the coil + terminal with the key on. And are all your engine...

Should be good on the gap how many miles on the cap and button?

what is your plug gap?

Isn’t this one the same 1963-1969 Valiant Barracuda Dart Under Dash Fuse Block With CLIPS | eBay

First thing to do is measure the resistance of the meter leads by touching them together. There will be some resistance there so just deduct that amount.

Yep you can get that in a pigtail 2-Way Connector Loop

I want to say that the slant 6 harness is the same as the big block but i’m just going off my terrible memory.

@halifaxhops

Glad you got the correct alternator and it’s all sorted out:thumbsup: Rebuilding an alternator although easy enough with the right tools just isn’t for everyone.

first off here has your car been upgraded to the solid state voltage regulator? the square back alternator in your pic is a late model unit. The round back alternator is what came originally on your car. the first pic is the early regulator and second is the later one.