Car gets zero power (HELP)

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RADRED72DART

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I recently installed a MSD 8838 Ready to Run Distributor paired with a MSD 6AL Box.... It is wired as per the msd wiring instructions. Since I have done this I've had nothing buy complete tragedy with my electrical system.

Car wouldn't fire so I replaced the Voltage Regulator then it finally ran no problem no issues.

Second time driving the car I started having issues with smoke under the dash but could not find where although the car still seemed to run fine. I checked the alternator and noticed it was not charging the battery so I replaced the alternator.

Everything checked out fine with the volts while running being just under 14V with lights and stereo on.

test drove the car 10 mins later smoke under the dash again brought the car home still running fine, parked it in the garage turned it off.

Now the car has no life & will not start, shows no signs of any power ignition on/off/accessory, lights won't come on no nothing.

Battery is fully charged I've checked ground wires and connections can't find any sign of wires melted anywhere.

I'm losing my mind here guys I'm not a electrical master I need guidance here.

Do I need to replace the ignition or is this a separate electrical issue. Ive cleaned the battery terminals, checked and replaced the alternator, replaced the voltage regulator, checked fuses & obvious ground wires.

can somebody suggest a way to test the ignition or something else it may be?

Thanks In Advance....
 
Your fuse link is probably blown check that for the no power condition.
Can I ask how you bypassed the factory ballast resistor?
 
You need to check the amp gauge it’s the most common place for the wiring to be burned. After that I would for fuseable links in the engine compartment.
 
Maybe you could tell us what we're workin on here? Year, make, model, engine and so on. We can assume it's a 72 Dart from your username, but assuming is dangerous.
 
cudascott said:
Your fuse link is probably blown check that for the no power condition.
Can I ask how you bypassed the factory ballast resistor?
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From what I can see no signs of any issues with the fuseable link. As far as the ballast goes when I bought the car there was already a electronic ignition hooked up to it. The new Ready to Run distributor has a built in Ballast.
 
RADRED72DART said:
From what I can see no signs of any issues with the fuseable link. As far as the ballast goes when I bought the car there was already a electronic ignition hooked up to it. The new Ready to Run distributor has a built in Ballast.
Click to expand...
most times a visual inspection doesn’t work for a fuse link. Check voltage to and through it to the amp gauge
 
RustyRatRod said:
Maybe you could tell us what we're workin on here? Year, make, model, engine and so on. We can assume it's a 72 Dart from your username, but assuming is dangerous.
Click to expand...
Ha that would probably help. 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger, 318, Auto. Stock 340 cam, performer intake, four barrel carb, Doug’s headers, otherwise pretty much everything else is stock on the car.
 
RADRED72DART said:
K I’ll look deeper.. thanks man.
Click to expand...
Bud…

I think it’s the problem. I checked fir power to the link and it ended just before the bulkhead connector. When I pulled it the engine bay side is totally melted. It’s a miracle. I’ve literally spent hours upon hours searching the entire wiring system… thanks so much. I’ll update when I figure out the fix. Thanks guys.
 
RADRED72DART said:
I started having issues with smoke under the dash but could not find where although the car still seemed to run fine.
Click to expand...
RADRED72DART said:
I started having issues with smoke under the dash but could not find where although the car still seemed to run fine. I checked the alternator and noticed it was not charging the battery so I replaced the alternator.
Click to expand...
The "alternator gage" should only show battery charging fr a few minutes after starting.
Normal position is straight up.

RADRED72DART said:
Everything checked out fine with the volts while running being just under 14V with lights and stereo on.
Click to expand...
That is a useful test. It shows the alternator is producing power but the system voltage at the location you measured is a little low.
Measure again at the alternator output to know more.

RADRED72DART said:
test drove the car 10 mins later smoke under the dash again brought the car home still running fine, parked it in the garage turned it off.
Click to expand...
RADRED72DART said:
Now the car has no life & will not start, shows no signs of any power ignition on/off/accessory, lights won't come on no nothing.
Click to expand...
You've solved the result. Next up is solving the cause.
RADRED72DART said:
Battery is fully charged I've checked ground wires and connections can't find any sign of wires melted anywhere.
Click to expand...
Hate to ask but how do you know its fully charged?
Was it charged up on a charger?
Depending on age and temperature, it should be 12.8 volts after the surface charge disapates.
RADRED72DART said:
I'm losing my mind here guys I'm not a electrical master I need guidance here.

Do I need to replace the ignition or is this a separate electrical issue. Ive cleaned the battery terminals, checked and replaced the alternator, replaced the voltage regulator, checked fuses & obvious ground wires.

can somebody suggest a way to test the ignition or something else it may be?
Click to expand...

Here's what's going on:
The fusible link and other connections? had too many electrons trying to squeeze through them, got hot and melted.
There is either a short with the key in run, or there was too much charging current (typical with a battery very low).

Here's why:
The main junction joins the two power supplies (battery and alternator) to the the main feeds as shown in the drawing below.
Everything connected to the welded splice is hot.
Since smoke only appeared when the car was running, the cause was not a short in any of these wires.
It has to be related to the ignition or accessory circuit, both of which get connected with the key in run.

upload_2022-1-1_13-31-34-png-png.png


The 'alternator gage" is an ammeter in the battery power feed.
The ammeter shows current flowing in or out of the battery. In other words battery charging and discharging.
If its showing discharge when the engine is running then the battery is providing power and the alternator is not.
Its another useful tool.
Its calibrated roughly 40 amps to 40 amps.
Anything close to 40 amps either way is DANGER DANGER


example of a short
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