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Here’s the chart

What diameter tires?

Go here everything you need to know and they have the parts http://www.brewersperformance.com/

The spring does indeed hold the clutch pedal up as well as assist.

That’s awesome and no more big nut on the upper mechanism bolt since the new plate will have threads.

:rofl:

Canadians stamp straight they are P happy though :lol:

Success!!

Very good idea!

It’s out of a 1970 car that was assembled in the Windsor plant. PP833= A-833 4 speed 3007= Oct,21 (10,000 day calendar) 0334= number trans built that day Most likely from a 1970 Dart.

The degree on the heads and the plate make for a high resistance and it’s tough to break them loose with no corrosion involved. I find it easier to use a 5/16 drill bit and drill the center and the head will break off. After that the remainder of the bolt will almost screw out by hand it’s the...

@RustyRatRod

Here you go Al Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists you will need two of these Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

1968 lynch road plant is the vin stamp. I think brewers has some good info on them casting numbers and the numbers stamped in the pad with the partial vin are 10,000 day calendar date codes.

The “spur” is the clutch pedal up stop and there should be a rubber bumper on the flange that it hits when the pedal is in the full up position.

The spring most definitely assists when pushing in the clutch just unhook the linkage from the pedal and push it in by hand just make sure you hold on to it bringing the pedal to the top is not it’s only function. The reason the over center spring is removed when using a diaphragm plate is the...

Yes the switch uses a gasket brewer’s has it if you decide to buy one. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Make sure have enough clutch disc and plate departure. May need to adjust the clutch linkage.

I agree with 72bluNblu just replace the parts and as for the shift rods they are tempered so I wouldn’t weld on them. Brewers should have all the parts you need to repair the shifter.

Not sure if the factory checked them or not but the procedure and run out amount it is in the factory shop manual.

I’d give a 100% chance of the gearbox going right in if you align the clutch disc properly. I would also give you a 50% chance of killing the front input bearing and seal along with shifting problems if you don’t dial that bell in.

the keys are the same for both reverse and counter shaft. The key you have is twice the thickness of the correct key if you need the the thickness I can mic one from the shop tomorrow evening. The ones brewers sell are the correct ones. Also the key you have pictured did not come from anywhere...

Yes that is the wrong thickness key the correct key is a very sloppy fit in the key way on the shaft.

The Lakewood bell has starter provisions for both 10.5 and 11” flywheels there is a small bracket and pin required when using the 10.5 inch starter position. Just run the 143 tooth flywheel with a McLeod dual disc RXT and roll on.

Did you use sealer on it? I only ask because they are meant to be installed dry. Are sure that it’s the side cover and not the reverse shaft seal leaking. Or possibly the 1/2 or 3/4 shaft seals. Also do you have alignment shoulder bolts in the correct locations on the side cover?

Nice write up AJ

slap on a three speed wiper setup and no need to cut on an original air grabber/ramcharger air cleaner

Killer ride!

yup that’s a crack

It’s a crack