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I've got at least 5 stashed....you never know, plus.....I doubt if they're worth a big dollar amount. Depends on how valuable your space is, I guess.

I'll tell you what NOT to get.......these. I bought some and drove my car at night and was actually yelling and cursing them inside my car while I was driving home, they were so weak! How the hell they meet federal standards is beyond me. They may look real bitchin' on your car sitting in a...

I've always heard it recommended that you use a "heat sink" alligator clip on the wire as you're soldering also, to soak up some heat from the wire, so as not to overheat the diode.

That happened to me. My friend had a '65 Formula S and needed the engine done. I pulled and sent the long block out b/c I had no time to do it myself. Got it back from a local rebuilder, dropped it in and started to hear a faint rod knock after about a month. Yanked it back out and dropped...

Oh no...wasn't trying to say you're ignorant at all. What I'm saying is that you mentioned the brake and turn signal circuits are both working fine, and that it's the TAILLIGHT circuit that is NOT. Taillights are basically 2 filiments, 2 "bulbs" in one. So I believe it's the taillight...

It's the taillight circuit.....

Exactly! One good way I've found to "load" a circuit is to hook up a headlight to some jumper wires, and then use a couple "probe" ends to touch the one (taillight) contact in the socket, and then the other to the ground on the side of the socket. When you find that it doesn't light up, hook...

I agree also....definitely. That cylinder, though, might be looking good @ 155 lbs. because it's sucking oil and doing its own "wet test".

I'd tear it down......I know that sucks, but....I think something's seriously wrong. Maybe check your intake gaskets....might get lucky, but I sorta doubt it.

It may be that your ground (if you recently painted your car) could be not getting a good contact on bare metal. I think it's those grounds on the radiator support with the little screws, no?

Well yeah I know that, but let's say your battery is so dead that it can't crank the starter, just fire the plugs. So you push start the car and it fires up. I'd think that it would be pouring a lot of amps into that battery. I don't know if it would take 100 amps, but I have seen low...

I've thought about this too. I know bigger always seems to be better, but does anyone REALLY want their undercharged battery charging @ 100 amps? LOL I would think even a 50 amp alternator would be fine.

I've seen alternator diodes go bad so that the power will back-feed through the alt and drain the battery. If you disconnect the fat red output wire, and touch it to the output post and see if it sparks. Alternator sounds bad anyway.

A lot of the time the sockets get corroded and the bottom center contact for the bulb loses its "springyness". It's really very simple. You need power and a good ground. Sometimes also, painted surfaces provide a poor ground. Make up a alligator-clip jumper wire and connect one end to a...

Eff Pertronix. I've heard a lot of people slam them (some of my friends had weird intermittant missing @ idle that they tracked down to poorly-designed Pertronix II units), but since I never had a problem, I stood up for them. No more. It just bugs me to have thrown away $175.

Yes, I called them. They asked me the questions about things I'd already checked. Yes, I'm giving it full 12v, the coil and the module. Weird. I'm going to change the plugs and wires just for the hell of it and see what that does.......and swap out the carb too. It just sounds very...

I bought a Pertronix III and their recommended high-output low-resistance E-coil from Summit. The car runs terrible after it warms up. I don't know why, but it pissed me off and my car's been parked for the past 3 months. I've done all kinds of testing, including running a voltmeter to the...

Even though you replaced all the bulbs, go make sure they are all lighting up. Could be a bad socket or ground on some of them. If one or more bulbs are not lighting up, it won't "load" the flasher enough and make it blink. And if you've got a factory 4-way flasher setup, it probably (if I...

Put a voltmeter on the "+" side of the coil while you're cranking it AND while it's just sitting with the keyswitch "on". If it doesn't have voltage there during either way, trace it back and see why. Some culprits would be a blown fuse, bad ign. switch or bad connection @ the firewall plug.

If you probe the alternator's output terminal with a voltmeter while the engine's running and get 12 volts, your regulator and/or wiring to the alternator isn't doing it's thing. Check for continuity between the regulator and the alternator, since you've pretty much found out that the...

The voltage regulator shouldn't be the problem at all. The voltage regulator is most likely sending full voltage to the field windings in the alternator at idle. Reman junk alternator is probably the cause......OR....your car isn't idling too low in drive, is it?? I've had the same problem...

I just installed a new one on my '68 Dart 2 days ago that I bought from someone here on FABO (new in the box).....I figured it was a Mopar unit, but after opening the box....I kinda had my doubts. It just didn't quite look like a factory replacement, and it was inexpensive. I hope it doesn't...

Does it go to "F" when you move it all the way up by hand? Has this thing EVER worked right? Maybe the float has some gas in it and isn't floating correctly.

Is this the stock ignition system?.....connect a voltmeter to the negative side of the coil and have someone crank it. See if the voltage goes up and down. It should, if the ECU is doing it's thing.

Everybody wants to run an "audio tach" don't they?

Definitely NOT the voltage regulator.....it sounds like the alternator has weak output @ idle. I'd try a fresh higher output alternator. But before you do that, rev up your engine to 3000 RPM and check the current setup's voltage @ the battery. (all accessories off) That will tell you if your...

I'd say either high resistance through the switch or a wiper motor that's drawing too much amperage. Try a different switch and see what happens.

Wait, isn't there 2 power wires going to that setup?.......one for the coil (from the ballast) and one powering up the orange box? I'm a little foggy on how I hooked mine up. It's been a while.

Yes, I have heard about that when I bought my Mopar electronic ignition system. I never changed over though. I probably will in the near future. As far as burning out ballast resistors, I say no way......probably a shorted out coil IMO.