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67Dart273 is right on the money. Follow his suggestions. You cannot simply check voltage with no load applied (using a digital volt meter). The worse corroded connection will show you 12 volts, but as soon as you apply any load the resistance in the shitty connection skyrockets and your voltage...

Separate and inspect the bulkhead connector. They are extremely prone to electrical problems, corrosion and overheating.

One more reason to stick with the factory electronic distributor.....they work, are cheap, are tuneable and don't turn into a bag of rust.

Kind of what I was thinking. I dont beleive that there is a stud below it on this style, and that small stud is always difficult to get the nut on.

This is the style that I mean, it appears to be 1998 or 99 and newer.

It seems that later magnums used different connections. From what I gather they have the large threaded hot terminal, but the smaller terminal for the solenoid has a blade style of connector. These later ones seem to be more common now in my local wrecking yards. Has anyone tried one of these...

I just picked up another denso magnum mini starter yesterday as mine had a damaged terminal. They are great starters and are incredibly reliable, light weight and much better for fitting in with tight headers. I have noticed that some of the newer denso magnum starters have the large threaded...

The heavy one is a stock spring. I kind of think the other one is as well. I would be really surprised if the mechanical is all in at 2000 rpm.

You are correct, I just prefer doing my own home brewed mods rather than buying parts and bolting them together. Also being in Canada, and with my car budget taking a back seat to other priorities, the $25 USD plus exchange and international shipping turns into closer to $50 CDN for me.

I agree with everything above. It is pretty hard to beat a factory style electronic distributor in every way, with the mods mentioned above. If you dont want to spend money on the advance limit plate you can just weld up the advance slots and file them to length, if you search advance slot...

If the grounds are dirty current is limited by the ground, so less current flow and therefore, by that theory, less ammeter deflection.

This is a good point. The cigarette lighter is always hot on these cars meaning your volt meter will always be on, and be a draw on the battery. You probably want it switched.

I usually use the orange light wire for the factory radio. If you don't want to cut the connector off you should be able to make a separate harness using spade connectors that plugs into the harness and radio with an extra wire for the gauge lights.

Always disconnect it. Left connected all it would take is a mouse chewing wires to start a fire. If it sits over the winter or long term use a battery tender or top the battery with a charger every few weeks.

Yep. You need a new vr. The question is why it burned the wire.... are the points in it welded shut? I have had this happen. This is a prime time to upgrade to a two field wire alternator and electronic vr. Also you should inspect the bulkhead connector and consider bypassing the ammeter. They...

Whatever you hook it up to...... be sure that you have the polarity rite.

I believe tbe backwards marine engines had a hold down built into the cam valley to keep the oil pump driveshaft and gear seated. The backwards rotation makes it want to walk up out of the oil pump, pushing up on the distributor.

All chrysler small blocks turn the dist cw. All big blocks ccw. The caveat, as mentioned above, is some marine engines.

Hey Mike. I have done it a couple times, as above. Get yourself an alternator, brackets, volt reg, electronic dist and ignition box as well as the mating connectors and wire away. It is important to ensure that the switched wire to the alternator has full battery voltage or you will have an...

My earlier post was incorrect.....as the taillights ground through tbe bulbs....

Why do you want to do this? Most people go the other way - removing the pressure switch and putting in an actual switch. If the diaphragm in the pressure switch fails you loose your brakes..... To answe your question, your wires that went to the manual switch will all go to one prong of the...

The giveaway.....look at the vacuum advance can. Vacuum pulls on the diaphragm to advance timing. If you want to advance it twist the distributor the same direction vacuum would pull on the diaphragm. As was stated. Mopar small block distributors all rotate clockwise and you twist the...

Classic ballast resistor failure. Starts but wont run in the run position.

Condensor and capacitor are the same thing. They are not in, or required for electronic distributors. You will however find a few on your car from the factory r, on the coil as you had, sometimes the alternator, behind the instrument panel etc. Their purpose is to eliminate radio noise.

It is there for radio noise suppression. If you have breaker point ignition there is also one inside the distributor that is required, but that one on the coil can be eliminated.

Kind of what I was thinking. Yes, to slots in the reluctor, one each for cw and ccw rotations. Vacuum cans, shafts, weights etc are different for sure. I have just never compared the advance slot shaft.

Has anyone ever compared, are big block and small block interchangeable?

Drill and tap. Good idea, I like it!

It is not a second field. Both early and late style alternators only have one field. The difference is that on early alternators the second end of the field is grounded internally in the alternator . Later styles with the solid state voltage regulators ground it in the regulator, thus the...

Not to be a smart ***......but you know that the front cylinder on the drivers side is number one.....same as a chev but different than a ford