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I should note that I Still have a slant 6 pressure plate we modified with upgraded fingers and springs. Going to hold on to it in case I get another 4 speed hipo car.

Had the same issues running the Mcloud. I had issues with the throw out bearing/ Forks hitting the disk when the clutch was depressed. Had to re-engineer the torque arm and shim the pressure plate

There's a kit you can get with everything you need to refurbish the torque arm assembly. Brewer and Mancini carries it.

Infamous Inland shifter

I went with a billet retainer

If you can afford it Long makes an excellant V gate, about $600 or so. Go to the Jerico site for info.

What brand vertigate?

I know you have to weld a bead around the base to reniforce it. I have one laying around but for the life of me I can't figure why mine broke from just sitting on the rack and rotating the crank

I can't understand how it broke. The motor has never bven fired. All we did was rotate the crank to gain access to the pressure plate bolts. I can't imagine we broke it putting it in?

The snout of the bearing retainer on my 4 speed broke off clean at the base, I noticed it when I was trying to push the clutch fork back to the rear to install the clutch linkage, When I pushed rearward on the fork I can see the TO bearing move forward contacting the forks on the pressure plate...

Good quality parts

I sent an e-mail to Brewers last week about using the later 340 bell in an early A body. This was their reply. Bellhousing Ballstud brkt #BSB636 Adjuster rod kit #AK484 Clutch fork pivot (inside bellhousing) #AK636 You will also need a short 10 7/8" B/E clutch fork (#CF702) to...

I just picked up an 833OD today that has the bearing retainer machined down to accept the earlier bell housing register

I just received a factory replacement from Brewers. $125 incl core charge. I already had the handle and rods

I have a factory shifter out of a 74-75 Dart/Duster that I converted to a bolt on stick. i'm not going to use it in that I bought a new comp + from Summitt