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All of your suggestions have been tried and then some... -- The Issue remained… car is now sitting in the warehouse as I don't have the time to address it….

Nope still has yet to be figured out…everything suggested was tried and solved nothing nor clearly pointed me in a direction…. so after attempting to get it solved for about 6-8 months I tabled it, pulled the car in the warehouse and have not looked at it since…

So I'm already jealous, and drooling, but I still need to ask. How much did it cost to build the customer? Ie how much to buy this engine??

UPDATE::: Spent the afternoon up at A's working on my car and also helping with a rear end swap on a 69 Dart GT... Anyway here is what I found out today: 1) Hot wired the car -- I disconnected the dash HOT from the starter relay on the fender. Then put a jumper from that same point on the...

Me and Mopar Al and every the engine builder agree with everyone else that it has to be an ignition / wiring issue..... I really think hot wiring the car will help rule out or confirm the dash harness.

I will ad that to next weeks list of items to check.... I still think the weak spark issue is coming from the column to dash harness connector.... I think the dash harness is causing the drop in current which is trowing off everything else. Hot wiring it either rule out this out or confirm it.

#1-- No need to the marks lined up when we did this. #2-- Light is definitely good working light -- Which we all agree here it is an ignition / electrical issue for it to jump then #3-- We did both -- No change -- you can read previous pages of how it runs when we create a deliberate vacuum...

Me and Al will try this next week. Might be tough to do since the battery is in the trunk.... Can I pull the red wire off of the starter relay and hook that to the ceramic ballast?? Which side of the ceramic ballast does it get hooked to?

We are trying to rule out everything else before we crack the engine open just to do exploratory surgery on it... We are still hopefully to find something in the electrical / ignition side that fixes the problem... I am going to try what DFX suggest next time I am up there... unless Al tries...

Hey Al -- Maybe we should try running it with all the lights off in the garage and see if it puts on an arching light show... Its worth a shot.

I never video tape me doing the actual drinking of the beer... no need having proof that I drink more beer than I do work when I'm working on my car.....

Yes---but not with a piston stop --- did n't have one... so we did it the old fashion way. Put you finger over the plug hole and rotor the engine till it blows your finger off. When we did this the rotor lined right up with #1

idel mix screws -- yes they are -- Al turns them exactly the same when he adjusts them.. Gap on the reflector -- yep we checked that too... its ..008 with a brass feeler We have not hot wired the car --- I'm not quite sure how to do that?? At this point I am thinking that the wiring...

Yeah its definitely an odd situation I have going on here. Even crazier, when its running and you pull a plug wire (and I mean any plug wire) it doesn't really make it run any worse.... So we will try it under load next week and see what happens..

UPDATE: Well I went up last Sunday and spent the day with Al working on the issues: Original Engine Builder thinks its a dead spark issue. And mentioned like many to check the electrical aspects of the engine: So here is what we did: -Cleaned the spark plugs -Changed the cap to a...

Its on the list of things to try the next time I get up there...its on page (2) or (3) here somewhere.... Good thing I work for myself... I spent most of the day posting on here... LOL... I'm sure me and Al will have a couple more beers before we figure this all out... Hey Al, hope your enjoy...

I agre with this logic. That why I called the original builder to see if he has the notes on what the engine was built with exactly. I have some pieces of the puzzle from my notes.... but I am showing we had it narrowed down to (2) different Comp Cams.... I am hoping he can verify which one...

I totally understand what your saying, that's the confusing part. The bucking goes away when you on the throttle. I can sit there all day and rev the motor at the carb up to 2000rpm or 3000rpm and it smooths out. Drop it to idle and the bucking shows up....we have also turned the idle screw...

We did try most of this, we actually reference your post while doing so. We put the vacuum gauge on the carb and then tuned the carb to the 12-14 like you mentioned before... Still have the bucking issue... We looked down the carb and YES it was dripping some... So we swapped it out...

Yes -- That is what killed the motor in the video

I'll talk to Al and we will definitely try it... I know as we adjust the carb we couldn't get it to stop the bucking... But we will definitely try this... Thanks

It was moving around... but we solved that issue... not it is only moving a couple degrees... so yes it is still moving but not as bad.... I just sent the video to the guy who built the engine Tim Bowman @ Bowman Performance... hopefully he can help shed some light on it as well. FYI --...

That's a good idea.... Its one of the things we have not tried... I will talk to Al and see when we can try this one. Thanks...

I think I posted last night that we did a compression test and it was good on the gauge they all ready in the 150-155-160 range and held tight..... We also cranked the motor with the valve covers off to make even more sure the valve train was all moving... That checked out too.... Thats' when...

That the same basic advice an engine builder told... Tear it down and eventually you'll figure it out.... Well that is way out of my talent level, hence Y I paid to have this done for me years ago... Its just a shame like most of us it took till now to get it running... But you have to jump when...

Brand new -- only idle time on the motor... Everything was 100% brand new on this motor when I built it. Granted then all the mother nature issues, but as you can see in the video it has life, just shaky... LOL

That same logic of being a brand new build (that is finally making it into the car) we are extremely hesitant to open this motor up just to do some trial and error work.

Being that the engine was built 100% with all new parts -- NOTHING USED except the crank and rods, and they were all handled and the engine builder... Which I am not...So I have a hard time seeing how the steel chain would have stretched with just idle time on it. Only actual driving time was...

I know a lot of you keep mentioning the fuel filter, fuel pressure, etc.... we have addressed this possibility already and.... Its not the fuel filter or the pump since we get the exact same results when running from a gas can bypassing the filter. Its not the fuel pressure as we have a gauge...

its not a fuel filter issue. Reason this is ruled out is that we have a fuel gauge right on the fuel rail to the carb and it is hold at 5.5-6.5 psi at all times which is what the pump should be. So there is no spike or dip in the fuel pressure corresponding with the bucking of the motor...