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30 over KB107's $266 at Summit Racing.

I think you will be hard pressed to find lifters thst don't oil through the pushrod. If you don't want them to just get push rods that don't have tge oiling hole in the ends.

When the manufacturers were measuring "gross" HP there was no standard test method. The SAE net measurement defined how the test would be done. Net requires all the accessories (water pump, alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor), stock air cleaner, stock fan and stock exhaust. Prior...

Mopar sources their filters from FRAM among others. If you check around the Internet you will see Mopar filters cut open that have the same fiber end caps as FRAM.

I have a few comments to share on filters. 1. Back in the mid 70's I worked for a company that made thermostats, radiators, oil coolers, etc for all three of the Big Three plus virtually every aftermarket brand. We also had a very extensive engineering lab which I ran and would do contract...

Buying a new crank, rods and pistons does relieve you of the need to balance. Unless you buy a kit with everything from one place they will still charge extra to have it balanced.

FWIW, almost all off the shelf cams when installed per recommendations will be advanced a few degrees. Also, a lot of people typically call installing a cam straight up when they put it dot to dot on the timing marks. Since most cams are intended to be installed advanced the marks (if...

As Jack said I too am running 10.58:1 with zero decked KB107's in a 360 with magnum heads and an XE268H cam. The cranking pressure in my engine is 195 to 205 psi. I have almost 50k miles on the engine running 89 octane with no issues. I have tried 87 but high loads at low rpm do cause some...

If the car is a \6 with drum brakes they are still small bolt pattern. The \6 drum cars stayed small bolt pattern to the end of the a-body production.

I have magnum heads on my 360 with a measured 10.6:1 compression and cranking pressure in the 195 to 205 psi range. I have my initial timing at 18 degrees BTDC and total at 33 degrees. I run 89 octane with 10% ethanol.

I built my 360 (~370 HP) in 2005 and have almost 50,000 miles on it and it still pumps 195 to 205 psi on a compression test. BTW, I had to have 0.020" taken off the decks to get the pistons to zero deck. I also have magum heads with measured 64 cc chambers. Combined with a 0.040" thick head...

I built my 360 with KB107 pistons and Eagle SIR rods. Both of these are significantly lighter than the stock piston and rod. I had the rotating assembly balanced and they wound up taking almost a pound of metal off the crank. That much out of balance is going to be felt at idle not to mention...

I am running LA MP die cast covers on my magnum heads. I am also using the MP LA steel core rubber gasket. I have almost 50k miles on them and the covers have been off and on several time reusing the same gaskets and I haven't leaked a drop.

I did the same thing.

The truck carb is vented differently so it will operate at much steeper angles. For a street driven car you want the "Steet Avenger". FWIW, I have one on my 360 and it is by far the best of all the carbs I have tried on the engine.

I had an 89 Dakota with the TBI system that gave me 260,000 trouble free miles. Considering the number if vehicles on the road with this system I don't think it's as bad as it's being made out to be. BTW, the 93+ port injection system is not easily adapted to an older motor. The magnum intake...

FWIW, I finally welded a bracket to the floor and mounted a remote filter up next to the tranny. No more making a mess on my headers any time I change the filter. Plus I have plenty of room for the big filter. :)

Interesting since the Mopar brand filters were nothing more than a Fram with a black paint job a few years ago. Lately they look like they are getting them from Purolator.

Of course you will need a sb distributor but the ecu is the same between the 6 and 8. if you are going automatic you will need a sb tranny, if you are going 4spd you will need a sb bell housing and clutch. I did this Back in 05 and IMHO these are the steps. 1. Unless you already have disk...

FWIW, I have a fairly stout 360, ~375HP. I have had 600, 670, 725 and 750cfm carbs on it. By the butt dyno I don't feel any difference in top end power between using the 670, 725 or 750 but either the 600 or 670 have it all over the bigger carbs in off idle through mid range in throttle...

There are two versions, the one with the SM or SN API rating does not.

The magnum motor also uses a reverse rotation water pump and the front cover does not have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. The 308 head is a open chamber heads as are all 340/360 heads before the magnum head. The closed chamber magnum head when combined with a zero deck flat top piston...

I have 45k miles on mine know. I have no issues, fits good and looks good. Can't compare it to anything else since I built the engine with it. The ports are a little smaller than the Air Gap so it likely favors the lower RPMs more than the Air Gap.

Before you worry about milling the heads you need to know where the pistons sit in relation to the block deck and what the actual cc's of the heads are. The blocks typically were machined with a deck height on the tall side of the spec which lowers the compression and the heads could be anywhere...

I bent the ears on the stock bracket so I could bolt the bracket on using the vertical mounting holes. I initially used a stack of washers to space the bracket up so it was in the right position to get a straight pull on the throttle, then made a spacer out of a piece of Alumnium.

I used a stock LA bracket with a spacer under each bolt. You will need to long bolts to go with the spacers.

I believe the magnum head cracking issue is very much over stated. My son was the service manager for the local Dodge dealer until they lost the franchise in the Chrysler melt down. He doesn't recall ever having to replace a set of heads because of cracks. I have magnum heads on my LA360 block...

I get 16.5 to 18 mpg around town and 21-22mpg on the hiway with my 360. BUT, I also have an A833OD tranny, this combined with 3.55 gears and a 27" tall tire has it turning a tick over 2000 rpm at 65 mph and when I am crusing at anything over 40 mph its in OD. This engine is far from stock and...

The machine shop shouldn't be asking you how much they should take off. They should be asking you where you want the pistons to sit in relation to the deck. Then they should be measuring the deck height (they are more often than not higher than the nominal 9.600") and squareness and tell you...

Those pistons have the same 1.675 compression height as the KB107 which is about 0.012 below deck at a nominal 9.600" deck height. I wonder why they say they sit 0.018" above in the notes?