Would advancing this cam 2* or so be worth doing.

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duster360

duster360

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I have the engine out of my car at the moment doing some maintainance and changing up a few other items. I have the timing cover off at the moment and am going to degree the cam, it wasn't done back in the day when the engine was built. My question is would it be worth it to advance this cam 2* or possibly 4*. What would change? Would the powerband change? Would the idle change? Should I try 2* or 4*? Or should I just 0* the cam at 112 like the card says and put it back together?

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well by advacning the cam it will build more cylinder pressure and make more torque!

so as long as you have enough room to not have the valves hit the pistons or enough compression that it pushes the DCR past pump gas you should be fine...

and seeing a 264 adv you should be fine...
 
more cylinder pressure means more dynamic compression also. So maybe double check that it wont effect type of gas used?
 
I advanced mine 4 deg. That gives better mileage and smoother idle, plus more low-end torque. I also figured it gives more life since at 4 deg wear I will be back to factory, and I hope to change my cam again in 20+ years. Your cam is bigger than my 0.422/0.444 hydraulic. I also put in Rhoads leak-down lifters for better low-end.
 
Degree it like the card recommends, degreeings 2*to 4* is not going
to make whopping amounts of power gain unless its really off.
It will move the torque around in the rpm range.
Changing the valve springs will do more to wake up your engine if its an older build.
Check your balancer to see if it reads true TDC.
The combination of springs and getting your timing all in line will
be the most beneficial, all other changes can be made externally.
 
The rest of the cam card I understand. Could I get someone to read the last ( CAM TIMING ) section of my cam card and explain it to me. I understand some of it but not all.
 
Max lift = lobe centerline position. In other words, it's supposed to be installed 5* advanced per the card.

There are two different things here. In general, Lobe Separation Angle (LSA), how far in degrees the max lift points are apart in crank degrees, which on this cam is 112*. The other is the Intake Centerline (ICL) which is where you install the cam in relation to the crank, in this case at 107*, which is 5* advanced from the the straight up location (112).
 
805moparkid said:
well by advacning the cam it will build more cylinder pressure and make more torque!

so as long as you have enough room to not have the valves hit the pistons or enough compression that it pushes the DCR past pump gas you should be fine...

and seeing a 264 adv you should be fine...
Click to expand...

(In my best oriental voice) Kid need eyes check. May need grasses. That's 284. not 264. lol
 
Fst73_360 said:
more cylinder pressure means more dynamic compression also. So maybe double check that it wont effect type of gas used?
Click to expand...

Good point. I may need to just dial it in like the card says. I know this thing absolutly will not run on 87 octane, did that once by accident, 93 only. It is a standard bore 340 with the factory forged 10.5:1 pistons.
 
crackedback said:
Max lift = lobe centerline position. In other words, it's supposed to be installed 5* advanced per the card.

There are two different things here. In general, Lobe Separation Angle (LSA), how far in degrees the max lift points are apart in crank degrees, which on this cam is 112*. The other is the Intake Centerline (ICL) which is where you install the cam in relation to the crank, in this case at 107*, which is 5* advanced from the the straight up location (112).
Click to expand...


Ahh. Now I am understanding.
 
Got the cam degreed in today. Did it 3 times just to check myself. The card says 107* and I ended up with 107 1/2* all three times. Guess that is about as good as it gets for a street type setup. Didn't even have to use any offset keyways. Just decided to stay with the cam card specs and not advance it. Thanks for your help fellas.
 
I think I am misreading something here. Does the cam need to be degreed in at 107* or 112*? The way I was understanding it was that it needs to be at 107*. Wouldn't putting it at 112* be retarding the cam timing?
 
duster360 said:
I think I am misreading something here. Does the cam need to be degreed in at 107* or 112*? The way I was understanding it was that it needs to be at 107*. Wouldn't putting it at 112* be retarding the cam timing?
Click to expand...

That is the RECOMMENDATION on the cam card, 107*. 107.5 is close enough!

Yes in at 112* would be retarding it from the cam manufactures desired ICL.
 
Your dead on!
Was it out to begin with?
You gonna change the springs?
 
FWIW, almost all off the shelf cams when installed per recommendations will be advanced a few degrees.

Also, a lot of people typically call installing a cam straight up when they put it dot to dot on the timing marks. Since most cams are intended to be installed advanced the marks (if everything is to spec) will put the cam at its recommended advanced centerline. The only way to install most off the shelf cams straight up is to use a degree wheel and offset key ways.
 
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