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The. 73 Dart I harvested for the disk brakes had 14" steel wheels from the factory. Initially I used a set of 14" big bolt pattern wheels with 235/60-14 ties on all four corners. I latter switched to 15x7 Ralley wheels with 225/60-15 tires, these would rub the front edge of the fender opening...

The dust seals I used when I did the swap were Timken brand and were identical to the ones that were in the old rotors and fit the new rotors and the doner spindles fine.

Oops! Brain Fart on my part.

You want the bigger piston for manual brakes. For example if you can create 700 pounds of force with your leg on a piston with 1 square inch you are creating 700 psi in the system. If you had a larger bore master cylinder that was 2 square inches that same 700 lbs would generate 1400 psi...

I went with factory parts. I had picked up a 73 Dart parts car that donated the uca, spindles, adapter and dust shield. Everything else was new or rebuilt. Rotors were $90 (45 each), new wheel bearings and seals were $25 for both sides, loaded rebuilt calipers $60 ($30 each), rebuilt MC was...

The silicone DOT 5 fluids are not all they are cracked up to be; 1. It is very easy to entrap air in the fluid when pouring it making it very tough to impossible to bleed it all out. This results in a spongy pedal. 2. Water will not mix with it so any mositure present in the system seperates...

The bore of the MC is different between manual and power so you will need a manual MC. You will need the rod but the MC bolts directly to the firewall so no adapter needed unless you plan to use a late model MC with the plastic resevior.

If you are using the 72 down k- member you can make sway bar clearance by swapping the left side spindle and caliper to the right and right to the left. This will position the caliper behind the ball joint just like a F body.

Part number for pads is going to vary based on what you get and whom you get them from. I like Raybestos PG series pads and they are available for 73-75 A-body disk brakes.

The tab on the caliper that keeps the block on the hose from rotating when the banjo bolt is tightened is in the same position on both calipers so if you swap an A-body caliper from the left to the right to rear hang it and use an F-body hose it is going to come off the caliper the same as in an...

And you are being one of them. Here is an A-Body Left Caliper. Here is a F-Body Right Caliper. The bleeders and connection for the brake line are in exactly the same position. So, please tell me how swapping the left side A-body caliper to the right side when swapping spindles...

The pistons are 2.6" in diameter on 73-75 A-bodies. Year One has rebuild kits for US$15.95 (seal and a dust boot) and the pistons for US$35.95. That is quite a bit more than the $24 for a rebuilt caliper from RockAuto.

Agreed the hose routing is different but the hose is not part of the caliper and I had recomended the use of Aspen hoses when swapping the calipers side to side. I do stand corrected that the A-body anb F-body calipers are different, F-body calipers are listed for both front and rear hung...

The front mounted caliper on an A-body is the same part as the rear mounted caliper on an F body. Just the right and left part numbers are switched; that is the part number listed for an A-body right is a F-body left. When you switch the spindle & caliper side to side to rear hang them you do...

You have to swap the calipers side to side too to keep the bleeders at the top of the caliper so you can bleed them properly.

The 10" front drums use a different spindle than the 9" drums so it is not a simple swap the of the drums and backing plates. They never made a 9" drum with the big bolt pattern. 80% of your stopping power comes from the front brakes and 9" drums are plane not adequate for a car driven on the...

On drum brake cars there is a residue valve in the master cylinder that keeps a couple of psi of pressure in lines and wheel cylinders to prevent air from be sucked in past the seals. I had a similar issue once where these valves were getting plug up with gunk and after several applications of...

There is an article in the current Mopar Muscle issue where they upgrade their 68 Barracuda drag car with Aerospace brakes front and rear. They were going from 73+ A-body disks to the Aerospace disks on the fron and drums to the Aerospace disks on the back. They saved 86 pounds.

I had a residue valve in an MC get plugged once and it would hold to much pressure in the wheels cylinder. Easy check is apply the brakes a few times and then crack the brake line fitting at the MC if you get a big squirt of fluid then your are holding pressure at the MC. If it's not at the MC...

Just go down to your local Advance Auto and buy one for a 68 A-body power disk brake car. Or for half the cost ask for one for a 73 A-body.

The spindles can swap side to side to place the caliper either to the front or to the rear but the 73 system came from the factory with the calipers to the front. Folks mount them to the rear on the 72 down cars so the caliper will not interfer with the factory sway bar, 73's had a different...

Correct, just unbolt the ball joint from the spindle and swap the spindles side to side along with the calipers (if you don't swap the calipers the bleeder will be on the bottom and you won't be able to bleed the brakes. The reason you need to do this is on the 72 an older cars the sway bar...

The best thing you can do is just keep an eye out for deals and jump on them when they come along. Once you have some major parts in hand that will dictate which way you go. And don't even start swapping parts until you have everything in hand. There are deals out there. If you pay attention...

Chuck, Yep, when I went back and looked at your post and the one before it I should have realized you were talking about the spindles. And I do agree there really isn't an issue staying with the 9" spindle.

The 73+ disks had the caliper to the front. I have heard that with it mounted to the front on a 72 down car with a factory sway bar the caliper can it the sway bar at full lock. If you swap sides with the spindle so you can mount the caliper to the back you need to swap calipers side to side too...

You can certainly spend $2k on tires and wheels but you don't need to spend even 1/2 that. When I did the disk brake and 8.25 rear swap I had picked a used set of lbp ralleys for $125. I just cleaned up the wheels, gave them a coat of paint and swapped over the tires I had on the sbp wheels...

All 8.25 rear ends had a 4.5" bolt circle. Starting in 73 the 8.25 replaced the 8.75 as the a-body heavy duty rear end. It could be had with cars with disk front brakes or v8 cars with 10" drums either case the bolt circle was 4.5". Only cars with the 9" drums had the sbp, if the 8.25 was...

Why go to the expense of upgrading to the front to 10" drums only to do a disk brake up grade latter? All you need from the 10" drum set up is the spindles. Or as I said earlier and 7071DartGTReg just mentioned look for a 73+ A-body with disk brakes and get the upper control arm and spindle...

Then you need to look for a set of factory 10" spindles or even better the spindles and upper control arms from a 73+ A-body disk brake car and you can use readily available factory parts.

I don't think there ever was a "bzillion" cars with 9" brakes, there certainly isn't today. That not with standing, the issue is; back when these cars were new everyone's brakes stunk so if the guy in front of you made a panic stop from 60 mph it took him the same 200 ft as it did you to stop...